Rob, I use pastel chalks, I bought a set at an art supply store several years ago, much less expensive per weight than Mig pigments. It's a set of earth tones, from a dark brown through lighter shades of brown and tan, and including a black stick, and a yellow. The set will last a lifetime, I'm sure.
For paint colors for groundwork, I use the inexpensive water-based acrylics sold at arts & crafts stores. Here in the US, Michael's and AC Moore are two of the larger chains of stores; I don't know the UK equivalent, but I imagine there is one. When I say inexpensive, these are 2-ounce bottles, sold at a dollar, and frequently on sale. For groundwork, they're perfect. I add the colors to the groundwork material, such as Celluclay, when I mix it.
To make mud, I'll grind some of the chalk, scraping it, really, with a hobby knife (like an X-Acto blade), selecting colors till they look right to me, and I put them in a well in my palette. A small jar or some other container would work just as well, as long as its water-tight. I add a couple drops of water, with a drop or two of dishwashing liquid, and stir this together with a toothpick, or an old brush, until it's of a consistent, uh, consistency
I apply it with the toothpick or brush, for example, into the road wheels on a tank, and in the track links, under the fenders, etc. Sometimes I'll apply paint as well, to help show gradations in color between the areas that are supposed to be wet, and older, dried mud spattered on the area, so, darker brown wet mud, and further from the muddy spot, khaki or tan dried mud.
I hope that helps, or provides more insight. Overarching is that for color, the manufacturer doesn't matter so much, as that the color looks like a match to my eye. And if the manufacturer doesn't matter, I'll buy cheaper materials, which leaves more money for more figures
Prost!
Brad
And please show us what you're working on!
