Paint Questions Novice (1 Viewer)

[tdubel]

Ok, I don't ever intend to paint, but it would be nice to have the basic ability to touch up dings/noses/hands, caps, etc. You know, the little things that go wrong in toy soldiers.

Can someone tell this idiot, I mean novice, what is a good basic touch up option? I saw the Vallejo military 72 kit, but at 200 retail, I don't want to be that prepared!!

Let me know, I appreciate it. My full time painter has retired!

Tom

 

[Fubar]

Visit a local craft shop or hobby shop. Vallejo is hard to find, probably your best option though.Mail order . Enamel I find more difficult to work with, need paint thinner to clean up , longer drying time.
Game /Hobby shops have very good acrylic water based paint. Games workshop and Ironwind { old ral partha line} .Good consistency, easily thinned down with water easy clean up with water.Tamiya is okay, good WW2 colors, a bit hard to handle.
Find the basic colors you think will work for your repairs.Black for hats, some flesh tone, primary colors as well.Don't be afraid to mix a little to get the right match.Most shops will have rows upon rows of paint.You should be able to find just what you need if you look hard enough.
Get a #1 brush, #o/1 thru 0/10 . Eyeball them to see which works best for you. A 0 /10 may be to small.
Do at least 2 coats. Seal with Matte spray finish.
#1 dont let it intimidate you. It's not difficult.
FUB

 

[Ragnar]

Uk Ebay store "Drum & flag" sells small packets of Vallejo paints in Quantity's.
of 6-10 bottles for a good price done in packs for WW2/RevWar/Civil War etc etc or as single color bottles.
not hard to do touch ups on metals {even for a amature like me} give it ago.
you can allways wash the paint off if you don't like what you have done.
Rob,

 

[danscott]

Uk Ebay store "Drum & flag" sells small packets of Vallejo paints in Quantity's.
of 6-10 bottles for a good price done in packs for WW2/RevWar/Civil War etc etc or as single color bottles.
not hard to do touch ups on metals {even for a amature like me} give it ago.
you can allways wash the paint off if you don't like what you have done.
Rob,

i have started getting all my vallejo paints from drum and flag,excellent value and top service.i always udercoat with a matt white undercoat spray,bought from hardware shops ,this is very cheap,compared to games workshop spray undercoat which is 20$aus a can.
simo

 

[PJDeluhery]

You can get the supplies you need at a hobby store that caters to figure painters. Since you are in MD, you could try Hobby Bunker in MA:

www.hobbybunker.com.

There are others.

The decision to use acrylics or enamels comes with experience. Try both and see what you like. I touch up with enamels.

 

[theBaron]

Tom, you can also get decent acrylics at the arts&crafts stores, like Michael's and AC Moore. You can also find them at HobbyLobby, if there's one near you. Unless you're going to start painting flats for competition, Andrea and Vallejo aren't necessarily required.

Fubar's tips on the brushes are good ones. I'd get sable or other natural fibers, too, because mine have always lasted very long, as opposed to artificial fiber brushes.

If you're going to start painting, even to do touch-up work, you might want to get yourself a magnifier, too. A benchtop magnifier can get expensive, as you move up the scale of styles to the floor models, but the little extra hands stands, the kind with a cast iron base, a magnifying lens and a couple of arms with alligator clamps, can be had for around $10 or less. Or even better, get an Optivisor, whether the original brand, or a copy. I find it extremely useful.

Hope that helps!

Prost!
Brad

 

[debrito]

Ok, I don't ever intend to paint, but it would be nice to have the basic ability to touch up dings/noses/hands, caps, etc. You know, the little things that go wrong in toy soldiers.

Can someone tell this idiot, I mean novice, what is a good basic touch up option? I saw the Vallejo military 72 kit, but at 200 retail, I don't want to be that prepared!!

Let me know, I appreciate it. My full time painter has retired!

Tom

TRy, TRY, TRY and finally TRY AGAIN...you have to try, pic one old metal soldier and TRY. This is the best way to learn and improve. Vallejo is excellent. Do not forget to add a PRIMER and also dilute the acrylic before apply.

Cheers

 

[tdubel]

Wow, thanks for all the advice, I have a few old beat up matte figures I can practice on!

Fortunately, I also have a stepfather who is a model railroader to hold my hand so to speak. I always like to get a little background info b/f going to him so I don't look like a total idiot!
Thanks again,
Tom

 

[Spitfrnd]

Thanks to Tom for starting this thread. I have been working up to trying to do some touch ups of my own so all this is interesting. One question this has raised is whether you would prime just to do a touch up and what matte overspray you use?

 

[theBaron]

Thanks to Tom for starting this thread. I have been working up to trying to do some touch ups of my own so all this is interesting. One question this has raised is whether you would prime just to do a touch up and what matte overspray you use?

Depending on the size of the touchup, I might not prime the spot. If I were to prime, for a touchup, I'd probably use a matte gray, like Tamiya's matte gray and brush it on the area.

For matte spray, I use Testor's DullCote. I use it on scale models, too. It's always worked well for me.

Prost!
Brad

 

[aujj65]

Ok, I don't ever intend to paint, but it would be nice to have the basic ability to touch up dings/noses/hands, caps, etc. You know, the little things that go wrong in toy soldiers.

Can someone tell this idiot, I mean novice, what is a good basic touch up option? I saw the Vallejo military 72 kit, but at 200 retail, I don't want to be that prepared!!

Let me know, I appreciate it. My full time painter has retired!

Tom

Tom,

I think you would find it both rewarding and satisfying not to mention therapeutic! Not saying that you do deed therapy of course.

I only use Humbrol gloss enamels so I can’t advise you on what’s best for the matt figures, but the above advice from my esteemed forum members seems sound enough.

Give it a go, you may find you like the smell of thinners!

Jeff

 

[debrito]

Depending on the size of the touchup, I might not prime the spot. If I were to prime, for a touchup, I'd probably use a matte gray, like Tamiya's matte gray and brush it on the area.

For matte spray, I use Testor's DullCote. I use it on scale models, too. It's always worked well for me.

Prost!
Brad

I have been use TAMYIA Grey and works very nice. If the damaged part shows the metal I really recommend to primer before add the acrylic or oil etc...
Brushes are very important too, try to use the best you can afford i.e Kolinsky Sabre.

Cheers.

Rod.

 

[Spitfrnd]

...
Give it a go, you may find you like the smell of thinners!

Jeff

Wait now Jeff, I thought acyrlics like Vallejo were thinned with water? Is that now true as well for the primers?

 

[aujj65]

Tom,

I think you would find it both rewarding and satisfying not to mention therapeutic! Not saying that you do need therapy of course.

I only use Humbrol gloss enamels so I can’t advise you on what’s best for the matt figures, but the above advice from my esteemed forum members seems sound enough.

Give it a go, you may find you like the smell of thinners!

Jeff

Wait now Jeff, I thought acyrlics like Vallejo were thinned with water? Is that now true as well for the primers?

Bill,

My attempt at humour was enamel based

Jeff

 

[Spitfrnd]

Bill,

My attempt at humour was enamel based

Jeff

LOL, sorry mate. My understanding of your humour was alas water based.

 

[9thHussar]

Hi

there is an old book from the early 1970's which I keep seeing every so often on ebay called - HOW TO MAKE MODEL SOLDIERS by Philip O,Stearns. I picked my copy up years ago, but it is great to show you how to paint from scratch and there are loads of examples and ideas and articles on figure manufacturers and all the different types of materials to use and paint.

I dont think it costs that much to buy and it is long out of print - maybe 2nd hand book shops or internet shops may also be a good source to find this super book.

Regards
9thHussar/Dave

 

[ecuriel]

You may want to Look at "Flames of War" they use Vallejo paints and have specific sets for various armies. They also have matte and gloss finishes for small touch ups. Look at there website for painting techniques.

 

[Scarlet Pimpernel]

I realize that I am adding to this thread pretty late in the discussion, but I think some really good points are being made here and a couple I would like to add to.

While I paint in matte, I find that there are certain accoutrements that profit from a gloss finish, as a result, I use both acrylics and enamels. While I generally like the Vallejo acrylics and the color options, I find that most often (especially if you are painting may figures) it is much more cost effective to purchase large bottles of inexpensive acrylics from your local craft store. Vallejo paints are 17ml bottles, while I can pick up comparable quality 2 fl oz bottles for about $1 (and sometimes subtle pre-mixed shades unavailable from Vallejo). While you may wish to mix your own shades, the value of the premixed is that if you come back later to paint additional similar figures, the colors will match. Also...I write down precisely which paints I have used on each article for any given regiment for later reference.

I also use Testor's DullCote to protect the acrylics once most of the painting is complete, although I may complete some of the detailing with enamel following the DullCote. The enamels are generally durable enough not to require a protective coat, and if you DullCote after all the painting is complete, your gloss enamels will be as flat as your acrylics. For these gloss details I prefer Humbrol to everything I have tried; it is smooth and easy to apply and doesn't "glob" as some other brands do.

Regardless of the paints and techniques you choose to adopt, the most important equipment in your arsenal are your few valuable brushes. While I must have 20 or more brushes, I generally use the same five, beginning with a 15/0 (one 000 even cut down). Buy your brushes from an art store, not a craft shop. Get the best you can, and take very good care of them. You can use the same brushes for both acrylics and enamels, but be sure to wash them thoroughly after use. If you use thinner, wash the brush with soap and water after removing the paint completely with thinner. I still have every brush I have bought. The good ones will last a very long time if you don't "scrub" with them. I consider Floquil brushes adequate, my best being Kolinsky Sable brushes made by Winsor and Newton.

I don't consider myself a great figure painter, but I was surprised at how much better my results were once I was using the best materials.

That's my two cents.

Thanks.

 

[aujj65]

I realize that I am adding to this thread pretty late in the discussion, but I think some really good points are being made here and a couple I would like to add to.

While I paint in matte, I find that there are certain accoutrements that profit from a gloss finish, as a result, I use both acrylics and enamels. While I generally like the Vallejo acrylics and the color options, I find that most often (especially if you are painting may figures) it is much more cost effective to purchase large bottles of inexpensive acrylics from your local craft store. Vallejo paints are 17ml bottles, while I can pick up comparable quality 2 fl oz bottles for about $1 (and sometimes subtle pre-mixed shades unavailable from Vallejo). While you may wish to mix your own shades, the value of the premixed is that if you come back later to paint additional similar figures, the colors will match. Also...I write down precisely which paints I have used on each article for any given regiment for later reference.

I also use Testor's DullCote to protect the acrylics once most of the painting is complete, although I may complete some of the detailing with enamel following the DullCote. The enamels are generally durable enough not to require a protective coat, and if you DullCote after all the painting is complete, your gloss enamels will be as flat as your acrylics. For these gloss details I prefer Humbrol to everything I have tried; it is smooth and easy to apply and doesn't "glob" as some other brands do.

Regardless of the paints and techniques you choose to adopt, the most important equipment in your arsenal are your few valuable brushes. While I must have 20 or more brushes, I generally use the same five, beginning with a 15/0 (one 000 even cut down). Buy your brushes from an art store, not a craft shop. Get the best you can, and take very good care of them. You can use the same brushes for both acrylics and enamels, but be sure to wash them thoroughly after use. If you use thinner, wash the brush with soap and water after removing the paint completely with thinner. I still have every brush I have bought. The good ones will last a very long time if you don't "scrub" with them. I consider Floquil brushes adequate, my best being Kolinsky Sable brushes made by Winsor and Newton.

I don't consider myself a great figure painter, but I was surprised at how much better my results were once I was using the best materials.

That's my two cents.

Thanks.

This is very sound advice and I couldn't agree more. The better the quality the better the final result imho.

Jeff

 

[HAWKEYE]

hi jeff, i have a quick question, i recieved some trophy figures where the barrels were bent and lost paint down to the metal. if i touch them up using grey primer and than gloss paint will there be any creep back or shrinkage of the area covered?