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Did they just focus on PA? They did a LA mold about 12 years or so ago and used the standing German WW1 firing which was a tough choice because it's a multi piece mold and doesn't fit. Also, whoever wrote the piece hadn't had much experience and it article reflected the frustration. There is...

I read the other comment. I see what you meant. I'm not sure why Rich is in such a rush for the molds that he puts the raw guy on the site. But, to make matters worse, some pictures he's never updated. The bazooka team still shows a non-painted loader and that mold is like 10+ years old...

He's a hunter. It's hard to tell from the all grey look but in the right hand there is an over/under shotgun and the left has a duck by the neck. He has an open jacket. Very detailed with zipper and all. The cap is extraordinary. The tie on top kind with ear flaps. He has shotgun shells in...

No, which one...I haven't had a subscrip to a TS magazine for a while now. They seemed to be getting away from toy soldiers and onto 'action figures' and 12" figures.

Did you get the email about the 6 new WW2 molds? If not, check out the Dutkins Website. www.dutkins.com They have 3 Germans (standing firing MP 38/40, kneeling firing MP 38/40, and kneeling firing Panzerfaust. Also, US loading rifle grenade, firing M3 in standing firing and kneeling firing...

Good question. On molds where there's just a figure I tend to use backing boards (rough side in for increased air flow) and the orange/green spring clamps (the type found at Lowe's or Home Depot..I have like 10). For tricky thin pieces or 'heads' where the face doesn't form, I bought the...

The pack 75mm Howitzer is one of the best molds. Typical Dutkins tho...I'd suggested that after I'd gotten the Britain's' set about 8 years ago and thought that the 75 would make a good mold. It's a 'straight pour' with no tricky support bars like the French 75 has. For added authenticity, I...

Hey KV....been out of the loop for a bit but guess what?!? I got my first figure that I commissioned. It took a bit from the sculptor in Great Britain. He did the sculpting after I told him the original idea. I had sent some pics for what I wanted to add on. Since my grandpa had gotten me...

No, I mean the pose on him is hard to duplicate in real life. He's cool...I would just turn the head to the left slightly. Helpful tip on the 24th foot. When you do the firing figures, put the right arm on first. That way you can make it level with the base. I take a soldering irong and put...

Sparks: I like the kneeling/firing LA figure. I see that he's a re-sculpt, differing from the catalog yet again. Very nice. I notice that you have/had the same problem with the bayonets that I did...the connection point is incredibly thin and fragile. I had to strengthen it by cutting...

Please do! I always like seeing other work other than my own. It inspires me...often I go in a direction I hadn't considered. It's funny how one can cast a figure, with all the variation one can think of yet see another's work and think, 'wow, why didn't I think of that????'

Got another 'pose' for you. On the 24th Foot molds you got, take the kneeling torso, the firing pistiol arm and the left arm that's not doing anything. Have him kneeling, firing to the right. Place head appropriately. Put arm down about half way on left side. Put the crate from the mule in...

Thanks Brad: The top one is the ACW Bucket guy from LA. I took off the head and put the head for the 24th on him. The middle two are of the Zouave with the fez lopped off and a kepi put on in place. The bottom picture is the same guy, 'au naturale.'

Have I got *the* converstion for you. It is so super simple but makes the absolute world of difference. I took the marching Zouave (LA) and lopped off the head with a snip. So far so good. I then took the headless torso and sanded the little bump (no pinch snips again). Using the mold part...

on the talc...I found that a women's cosmetic brush works great. It costs about 4 bucks and has massive surface area. That does great. Clap them together tho like he said...I've had talc block the entrance to shovel handles and spikes on picklehaub helmets. I make my molds 'vibrate' by...

I have graphite powder but I found that it's biggest sin is that it's the very devil around the basement. It gets everywhere...and I mean...*everywhere*. I switched back to talcum powder. Regardless, use an old toothbrush and dish detergent to scrub the figures prior to priming. I actually...

Take a pic of the kneeling guy after you finished him. I want to see what he looks like after re-sculpting. Also, the standing guy can be difficult... The pin for the shoulder of the right arm is a struggle if you try to put it in the socket. If you hold the arm up to the figure, it works...

I've never actually burned out a rubber mold before. I have some 25 mg PA molds from like 1980 that are still functional. I used them a lot and abused them by pouring pure lead. It seems sometimes they are going bad (hard) but poured once, and they seem to spring back to life. I suppose if...

KV: Another option is to pick spokes that don't come out. You'll know which ones they are. Replace them with bits of paper clips (I like the bigger ones). They work great. Lay them in the mold, with a little bit protruding into the wheel and also the hub (this takes practice). Cast...

the zulu (LA) is a Big Guy. The 24th are scale. The Zouave officer (with sword) in LA is kind of a funky angle. I mean, he works....until you try to duplicate the pose yourself. The head needs to be turned counterclockwise about 30 deg. I personally think that the zymac molds work best with...