A Gordon for Me (1 Viewer)
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johnnybach
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Wow! - look at that - dead right!!!
Terrific - picture - thanks for that one trooper - he's bonzer!
johnnybach
Terrific - picture - thanks for that one trooper - he's bonzer!
johnnybach
johnnybach
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Well - after a day gardening - what better relaxation than to paint a few Colour Sergeant's rank badges on a 54mm arm - or three. That's the best focus I could get sorry. And no, that's not blood, sweat and tears on the tissue - it's turps!
The group still being painted now look like this. Note the third in from the left has had his Colour Sergeant arm fitted - cuff detail to add when everything is dry. The Sgt. Mjr. is second in - and is finished except for a coat of varnish and the base to be painted. The Ensign has had sword made up into a broadsword using milliput. Note that the basket needs another coat of red - then overpainted with a basket weave design in gold to suggest a basket hilt.
Note also the distinctive black sporran with five white tassels of all OR's (thanks for superb picture from Trooper which preceded this page!). The Mounted Colonel needs some facial work and detailing to tunic - then I will varnish him - before beginning painting the horse. As mentioned previously, this allows me to hold him whilst painting, without smudging or removing paint.
Lastly - to show you that I leave no stone unturned in my quest for uniform details - a delightful picture I found - which confirms much of the detail for my Drum Major, which I could look at for hours.
In fact - I'm off for one now! Cheers!! johnnybach%^V
The group still being painted now look like this. Note the third in from the left has had his Colour Sergeant arm fitted - cuff detail to add when everything is dry. The Sgt. Mjr. is second in - and is finished except for a coat of varnish and the base to be painted. The Ensign has had sword made up into a broadsword using milliput. Note that the basket needs another coat of red - then overpainted with a basket weave design in gold to suggest a basket hilt.
Note also the distinctive black sporran with five white tassels of all OR's (thanks for superb picture from Trooper which preceded this page!). The Mounted Colonel needs some facial work and detailing to tunic - then I will varnish him - before beginning painting the horse. As mentioned previously, this allows me to hold him whilst painting, without smudging or removing paint.
Lastly - to show you that I leave no stone unturned in my quest for uniform details - a delightful picture I found - which confirms much of the detail for my Drum Major, which I could look at for hours.
In fact - I'm off for one now! Cheers!! johnnybach%^V
johnnybach
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Greenhouse now sorted and potato patch dug over so:....................
Painting continuing with figures begun earlier. Drum Major continuing with added details.
Mounted Officer has had sword arm added and head details being worked up. Ensign flag nearly finished - whilst Ensign details also built up.
First Colour Sergeant has had weapon arm fitted and three stripes (left arm only) added.
Sgt. major completed and re-touched on spat - where I smudged his black buttons by trying to varnish when the paint was still not dry enough! (it happens).
Decided to change back to Humbrol 102 for green bases - as an earlier mix of green was not satisfactory (too pea-soupy!).
Painting continuing with figures begun earlier. Drum Major continuing with added details.
Mounted Officer has had sword arm added and head details being worked up. Ensign flag nearly finished - whilst Ensign details also built up.
First Colour Sergeant has had weapon arm fitted and three stripes (left arm only) added.
Sgt. major completed and re-touched on spat - where I smudged his black buttons by trying to varnish when the paint was still not dry enough! (it happens).
Decided to change back to Humbrol 102 for green bases - as an earlier mix of green was not satisfactory (too pea-soupy!).
johnnybach
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Some of the figures are now really beginning to come together. The front pic shows how I generally prefer to work from top down. As I hold the bases whilst painting whenever I can - the lower legs, spats boots and bases get painted last. I have included both Ensigns, as I changed the Colour of the green base to straight Humbrol 102.
This next view shows them turned - to show left side. This shows lack of buttons yet on spats for mostexcept the finished Ensign and WO - also the three stripes on Col. Sgts left arm. I think I will be changing the colour of the basket hilt broadsword to silver - like the second one - as it looks better than brass/gold.
Rear view next - shows plaid and rear of each Standard.
The last pic shows right side. Note the second Ensign needs standard pole painting black - spats finishing etcetera. Note also that the mounted Officer is painted and varnished. After he has thoroughly dry, I could now handle him without smudging paint - when I paint the horse. Note also that I have painted the underneath of the horse already - as I will be fitting a base to a horse who will only stand on three legs.
More later. johnnybach
This next view shows them turned - to show left side. This shows lack of buttons yet on spats for mostexcept the finished Ensign and WO - also the three stripes on Col. Sgts left arm. I think I will be changing the colour of the basket hilt broadsword to silver - like the second one - as it looks better than brass/gold.
Rear view next - shows plaid and rear of each Standard.
The last pic shows right side. Note the second Ensign needs standard pole painting black - spats finishing etcetera. Note also that the mounted Officer is painted and varnished. After he has thoroughly dry, I could now handle him without smudging paint - when I paint the horse. Note also that I have painted the underneath of the horse already - as I will be fitting a base to a horse who will only stand on three legs.
More later. johnnybach
4th Hussar
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I am amazed at your quick progress
thebritfarmer
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Looking good Mr Bach 
Still waiting for my Asset castings, itching to get painting.
Still waiting for my Asset castings, itching to get painting.
johnnybach
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Yes they are going along nicely. Strange how some figures seem easy - whilst others take forever. Don't know why - though have done Gordons before - so maybe know the way to tackle them now!.:salute::
Yep - waiting in anticipation for the package to appear can be very frustrating - but will be worth the wait, I'm sure. Good luck with them. johnnybach^&grin
Yep - waiting in anticipation for the package to appear can be very frustrating - but will be worth the wait, I'm sure. Good luck with them. johnnybach^&grin
johnnybach
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Now that the first of the Colour Party are almost completed - I can begin moving on to one of the other elements of my group - The Military Band. Remember that these will be wearing the distinctive white doublet (look back to the first pages of this thread and to illustration "f".
Below, you can see on the left, that I have begun the process with flesh face (I'm like Obee in this regard - I like to see my figure's face!). White is always a difficult colour for me, so each has received two coats of Ivory (Humbrol 41). I find this covers better. I have also used no primer - as this makes coverage of white even worse - the grey shows through. (Does anyone make a white primer?).
The second figure shows the first coat of matte Oxford Blue - never a problem here for coverage - but he will get a second coat of blue. Note that I have learned from my first group, not to bother with below the knee coverage yet. I won't begin this part of the figure until all above is completed - due to the amount of handling each piece will receive before I get to the knee-down area. The tartan build-up will be the same - and it looks as if another couple of coats of white will be needed yet.
These are going to be my two Bombardon players - I forgot to show these first - so are in the third pic down.
Rear view
Note that I have checked that the instrument and arm will fit over the head and sit in the arm socket before beginning painting. If it hadn't, I would have removed the head and drilled and pinned for refitting after instrument was on. Luckily for me - this won't be necessary with these figures - as I asked Giles at Dorset Soldiers for his biggest size bombardon! Each arm has received one coat of thinned Ivory paint - to act as a primer. Left arm will be fitted after the right arm/instrument is on. I will show this process later. johnnybach
Below, you can see on the left, that I have begun the process with flesh face (I'm like Obee in this regard - I like to see my figure's face!). White is always a difficult colour for me, so each has received two coats of Ivory (Humbrol 41). I find this covers better. I have also used no primer - as this makes coverage of white even worse - the grey shows through. (Does anyone make a white primer?).
The second figure shows the first coat of matte Oxford Blue - never a problem here for coverage - but he will get a second coat of blue. Note that I have learned from my first group, not to bother with below the knee coverage yet. I won't begin this part of the figure until all above is completed - due to the amount of handling each piece will receive before I get to the knee-down area. The tartan build-up will be the same - and it looks as if another couple of coats of white will be needed yet.
These are going to be my two Bombardon players - I forgot to show these first - so are in the third pic down.
Rear view
Note that I have checked that the instrument and arm will fit over the head and sit in the arm socket before beginning painting. If it hadn't, I would have removed the head and drilled and pinned for refitting after instrument was on. Luckily for me - this won't be necessary with these figures - as I asked Giles at Dorset Soldiers for his biggest size bombardon! Each arm has received one coat of thinned Ivory paint - to act as a primer. Left arm will be fitted after the right arm/instrument is on. I will show this process later. johnnybach
johnnybach
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Latest pic of Colour Party attached - with Mounted Officer and Drum Major.
Nearly all figures are either completed - or very near completion. I am at the stage where I am about to finally assemble the last arm to a Col. Sgt. - and then finish off the various "missing" painted areas. The horse is now receiving attention and has been put on its base. Things to do include belt buckles, buttons and touch ups of any damaged areas or joints. These will then need to dry, before a final thin coat of varnish.
Whilst these are drying - I can continue with the next phase - which you have already seen has begun with the first two of the military band. Nothing much changed there fer now - so more later. jb
Nearly all figures are either completed - or very near completion. I am at the stage where I am about to finally assemble the last arm to a Col. Sgt. - and then finish off the various "missing" painted areas. The horse is now receiving attention and has been put on its base. Things to do include belt buckles, buttons and touch ups of any damaged areas or joints. These will then need to dry, before a final thin coat of varnish.
Whilst these are drying - I can continue with the next phase - which you have already seen has begun with the first two of the military band. Nothing much changed there fer now - so more later. jb
johnnybach
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The first little problem has arisen with the fitting of the Bombardon instrument complete with right arm to the body of the figure. The instrument fits over the head and the shoulder fits into its socket - but will not sit correctly - due to the chest plaid (which had already been filed down) - and the need to have a dirk at the right hip of the figure. Also, the shoulder sits too high - as the upper arm is fractionally too long. This was not apparent when the casting was "dry" fitted, but was more apparent once painted to this stage.
The solution is to cut the arm at the elbow joint. This will now allow me to fit the bombardon and lower arm to the body in order to make the instrument "sit right". I will re-fit the upper arm, once the super-glue has set. The joint of the upper arm cemented into the socket will ensure a very strong joint, whilst the gap at the elbow joint will be first glued - and then filled with milliput and finally sanded back to a flush finish - then touched in with paint. As the instrument coils around the body - it's best to paint all upper body details first - as it is difficult to do later. As you can see - I have begun this process.
I have done this with this type of figure before - and call it " a compound arm" (i.e made up of several pieces). In this case two - but have used up to four separate pieces on previous occasions, in order to get a natural looking shaped arm.
The Royal Marine figure below is the actual figure that I made with a four part arm - and also shows what I am trying to achieve with the Scots Bombardon player.
This is the main reason that I attempt the most difficult instruments first - the rest SHOULD be far easier. The dirk, by the way, will be fitted to the body later - and may be moved towards the rear of the belt - as it would have in reality, due to it fouling the bottom curve of the instrument. Must have been a pretty uncomfortable musical instrument to carry about! johnnybach^&grin
The solution is to cut the arm at the elbow joint. This will now allow me to fit the bombardon and lower arm to the body in order to make the instrument "sit right". I will re-fit the upper arm, once the super-glue has set. The joint of the upper arm cemented into the socket will ensure a very strong joint, whilst the gap at the elbow joint will be first glued - and then filled with milliput and finally sanded back to a flush finish - then touched in with paint. As the instrument coils around the body - it's best to paint all upper body details first - as it is difficult to do later. As you can see - I have begun this process.
I have done this with this type of figure before - and call it " a compound arm" (i.e made up of several pieces). In this case two - but have used up to four separate pieces on previous occasions, in order to get a natural looking shaped arm.
The Royal Marine figure below is the actual figure that I made with a four part arm - and also shows what I am trying to achieve with the Scots Bombardon player.
This is the main reason that I attempt the most difficult instruments first - the rest SHOULD be far easier. The dirk, by the way, will be fitted to the body later - and may be moved towards the rear of the belt - as it would have in reality, due to it fouling the bottom curve of the instrument. Must have been a pretty uncomfortable musical instrument to carry about! johnnybach^&grin
johnnybach
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The pic below shows in the background the 8 figures which are now virtually complete. There are one or two small touches left to finish - such as the base to the Colonel's horse to be painted green - and one or two other details - which cannot really be seen - such as varnishing one or two bases, buttons added etc. Once they are finally complete, I will photograph them in a formal group - as they will march at the head of the regiment ( in all four aspects).
In the foreground are the first two of the military band in their distinctive white doublets with red piping and facings in the yellow of the Gordon's. On the left is the bombardon player - with instrument and arm in front of him. The figure on the right will be playing the Ophiclied. He was originally to be the bombardon player - but when I fitted his dirk in the usual position - I failed to realise it would foul the bombardon instrument! Shows how you have to always think ahead before doing things. Fortunately, I have 30 of these figures to complete - so had plenty left to work with.
You can see how I have painted a lot of detail in - as the instruments will make it difficult to get at such detail if they had been fitted first. Note also that I have painted on much of the cuff detail already - as this too is easier when the arm is not on. (buttons to do in gold, once the arm is on). More later - johnnybach
In the foreground are the first two of the military band in their distinctive white doublets with red piping and facings in the yellow of the Gordon's. On the left is the bombardon player - with instrument and arm in front of him. The figure on the right will be playing the Ophiclied. He was originally to be the bombardon player - but when I fitted his dirk in the usual position - I failed to realise it would foul the bombardon instrument! Shows how you have to always think ahead before doing things. Fortunately, I have 30 of these figures to complete - so had plenty left to work with.
You can see how I have painted a lot of detail in - as the instruments will make it difficult to get at such detail if they had been fitted first. Note also that I have painted on much of the cuff detail already - as this too is easier when the arm is not on. (buttons to do in gold, once the arm is on). More later - johnnybach
johnnybach
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I have just fitted the bombardon and bottom of the arm to the figure on the left. It will now be clear how the dirk fitted in the usual position would have fouled the bottom coil of the instrument. When the super-glue is dry ( a touch on the inside at two points - where it touches the body of the figure was scraped clean of paint where the surfaces touch - at the top of the left shoulder - and the bottom of the doublet on the right hip), the top of the arm will be glued into the socket - and at the elbow. The instrument would then be fixed solidly and permanently. [I did check that it fitted whilst the glue was still not set!!]
I have also included the Ophicleid for the other figure with both arms attached - which you can see somewhat resembles the Tuba - which was replacing it in many military bands at this time (c.1865). I WILL have two Tubas in the band as well. The reason for this - and also interestingly why it superseded the bombardon too - was that it was much easier to play and also had a greater range of notes. This was yet another reason why I chose the date that I did for the band. johnnybach
I have also included the Ophicleid for the other figure with both arms attached - which you can see somewhat resembles the Tuba - which was replacing it in many military bands at this time (c.1865). I WILL have two Tubas in the band as well. The reason for this - and also interestingly why it superseded the bombardon too - was that it was much easier to play and also had a greater range of notes. This was yet another reason why I chose the date that I did for the band. johnnybach
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johnnybach
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I have now fitted the upper arm to the bombardon player - and filled the elbow joint with a small rolls of milliput - after brushing in a a smear of super-glue. I also brushed a thin layer of super-glue carefully over the joint after I had worked it smooth. Note that I haven't yet completed or filled entirely the shoulder joint, as I will need to fabricate a "wing" at the top of the shoulder for this musician. I will show how I do this later - as the joint needs to set firmly.
Note that I am just checking that the Ophicleid fits loosely - as I want to complete the facial details of the player - and paint the instrument better, before continuing with him. You can maybe see easier now, why I prefer to paint the tartan plaid - and other uniform detail, before I fit arms and instruments - as the tartan, for example, is much easier to do with a "clean" figure.
Note that I am just checking that the Ophicleid fits loosely - as I want to complete the facial details of the player - and paint the instrument better, before continuing with him. You can maybe see easier now, why I prefer to paint the tartan plaid - and other uniform detail, before I fit arms and instruments - as the tartan, for example, is much easier to do with a "clean" figure.
johnnybach
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Next stage is making and fitting the "wing". I hope I can make this clear?
First - the raw material comes from a blister pack of pills that I take. These packs are made from a central layer of plastic, encased in aluminium foil. I cut off the conveniantly shaped corner - to give me the tab at the top.
This next pic shows the small crescent of the wing, curved and bent to fit the shoulder of the figure ( which I built up to accept it with thin strips of milliput) - and another crescent of rolled milliput. (both resembling a snipped fingernail). I make these up to fit the piece, by trial and error.
I then first superglue on the wing piece to the shoulder - and whilst still not entirely set, gently feed in the curved piece of milliput. I use tweezers to hold the wing piece in place, and a cocktail stick to push in the milliput.
Sounds more complicated than it actually is - and with a bit of practice, becomes very easy to do. The trick is, to be very patient and use a magnifying lamp or Optivisor to see clearly.
When dry, brush over the pilliput with super-glue again. Once completely set, the whole thing can be painted and touched in with the rest. I will show this later. If this explanation worked - Hurrah! johnnybach
First - the raw material comes from a blister pack of pills that I take. These packs are made from a central layer of plastic, encased in aluminium foil. I cut off the conveniantly shaped corner - to give me the tab at the top.
This next pic shows the small crescent of the wing, curved and bent to fit the shoulder of the figure ( which I built up to accept it with thin strips of milliput) - and another crescent of rolled milliput. (both resembling a snipped fingernail). I make these up to fit the piece, by trial and error.
I then first superglue on the wing piece to the shoulder - and whilst still not entirely set, gently feed in the curved piece of milliput. I use tweezers to hold the wing piece in place, and a cocktail stick to push in the milliput.
Sounds more complicated than it actually is - and with a bit of practice, becomes very easy to do. The trick is, to be very patient and use a magnifying lamp or Optivisor to see clearly.
When dry, brush over the pilliput with super-glue again. Once completely set, the whole thing can be painted and touched in with the rest. I will show this later. If this explanation worked - Hurrah! johnnybach
thebritfarmer
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I am really enjoying this thread jb. Your instructions are most helpful and provide a great source of reference. Thanks !!
johnnybach
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Well, thanks Scott - that's good news for me - as I'm wasn't sure that I was explaining what I was doing well enough.
To continue: Next pic shows the figure from the front, who has had the whole new shoulder and elbow joint given a fist touch-in coat of Ivory. This arm will eventually be painted white, with red piping down front and back seams (see illustration "h" - which is back on the first page of this thread - for how they look). You may also note that the background colour for the wing is the Gordon's facing colour of yellow, with white piping, so this will be used as my basis for subsequent coats of paint.
I have placed his left arm at his base - and this will be fitted later - and the same process applied to his left wing at the shoulder - as I have decided to show both wings fully (i.e - the fly plaid off the shoulder). I think it will look better this way.
I only have another 29 figures to do - so 59 more to make! Hope I don't run out of tablet foil corners!!%^V^&grin
To continue: Next pic shows the figure from the front, who has had the whole new shoulder and elbow joint given a fist touch-in coat of Ivory. This arm will eventually be painted white, with red piping down front and back seams (see illustration "h" - which is back on the first page of this thread - for how they look). You may also note that the background colour for the wing is the Gordon's facing colour of yellow, with white piping, so this will be used as my basis for subsequent coats of paint.
I have placed his left arm at his base - and this will be fitted later - and the same process applied to his left wing at the shoulder - as I have decided to show both wings fully (i.e - the fly plaid off the shoulder). I think it will look better this way.
I only have another 29 figures to do - so 59 more to make! Hope I don't run out of tablet foil corners!!%^V^&grin
johnnybach
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Last one for now - shows side view of the newly first-coated elbow joint - and the dirk which has been fitted by slipping it just under the rear of the bombardon coil. This will "suggest" the rest of the dirk, which has actually been trimmed away. Once painted all will look fine. (The paint under the dirk was first gently scraped away - to provide a good metal-to-metal joint). The shot also shows nicely, how the instrument coils around the body, over the rear of the plaid - which was painted before. johnnybach
nshighlander
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Great idea JB.The figures that I`ve been picking up don`t have wings I`ll have to give this a try.
Cheers
Dave
Cheers
Dave
johnnybach
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Drat! I knew I should have patented the idea!
Seriously though Dave, - do give it a go - as it makes all the difference to (say) a Piper. If you also have an indented edge to the wing - just cut them plain like this and "suggest" indentations with paint.
This is one that I did this way,( an Argyle & Sutherland Piper) a while ago. His wings were almost non-existant - probably due to a worn mould - so I made some up in this way - then suggested the indented edges with white paint over piper-green. Hope you can see this - as it took me a few goes to get it in focus - remember they're only 54mm!!:salute:: johnnybach
Seriously though Dave, - do give it a go - as it makes all the difference to (say) a Piper. If you also have an indented edge to the wing - just cut them plain like this and "suggest" indentations with paint.
This is one that I did this way,( an Argyle & Sutherland Piper) a while ago. His wings were almost non-existant - probably due to a worn mould - so I made some up in this way - then suggested the indented edges with white paint over piper-green. Hope you can see this - as it took me a few goes to get it in focus - remember they're only 54mm!!:salute:: johnnybach