Hi Guys,
I have many fond memories of Holland and the Dutch people going back more years than I care to remember...but anyway...
First visit to Holland in 1970, I was still at college and myself and some buddies went “hitch-hiking” around Europe one Summer...France, Switzerland, Germany, Holland and Belgium. In Amsterdam I got absolutely wrecked on Heineken — one of the best nights in my life but one of the worst hangovers the next day!
Second visit to Holland in 1975, I was in the Royal Marines at the time and my unit (45 Commando) went on exercise with the Dutch Marines “The Cloggies”. A week “in the field” was followed by a 48 hour pass in Amsterdam. Needless to say much more Heineken consumed and our Dutch fellow marines introduced us to the many delights and temptations of Amsterdam’s famous and notorious “red- light” district. Ah the sweet memories of youth...but that as they say is another story!
Third visit to Holland in 1995, K&C had just launched our first “ARNHEM’44” series and I was determined to visit the said town and see all the famous places I had read and heard about.
I arrived early one September morning and headed straight for the Hartenstein Hotel (the British Airborne HQ) now a magnificent museum to the battle. Arriving before it officially opened I was greeted by one of its curators Mr. Wybo Boersma (who I believe is now the director).
He very kindly took me in and gave me a cup of coffee while I explained who King & Country was and what we do. I also told him that I wanted to present the museum with two of the first sets of our Arnhem ‘44 series which we had just produced at that time.
Wybo could not have been more friendly...he immediately took me on a personal tour of the Museum and then a “behind-the-scenes” look at their store which was simply amazing. Over the years this Museum must have the finest (and largest) collection of genuine British WW2 Airborne uniforms...equipment and weapons to be found anywhere. It seems that during and after the battle many Arnhem citizens just picked up discarded British uniforms and equipment and stored them away and then...in quite a few cases simply passed away forgetting about what they had in their attics.
At the same time, during the battle, tons of British supplies were air dropped all over the area. Some the Germans Captured...others were lost in the woods surrounding Arnhem...other stuff was buried to avoid the Germans getting it.
Years later it was still turning up!!! Wybo showed me a long parachute container that had been “dug up” a couple of weeks before in someone’s garden. In it, perfectly preserved, were army medical supplies and literally hundreds of field dressings — all dated 1943 or 1944 and in “mint” condition, he very kindly gave me two as a keepsake.
After we explored the Museum — top to bottom...it was now early afternoon and Wybo was about to go “off duty” he asked me if I would like a “battlefield tour”. Would I ever?
Anyway off we went in his car to see some of the original LZ’s and DZ’s (Landing Zones for gliders...Drop Zones for Paras) on the outskirts of town. Most of these large fields bordered by forest and woods are still as they were in 1944.
Wybo would point out to me where different units landed and deployed and what they did next. I was particularly interested in the route the Division’s “Recce” squadron in their attack jeeps took into Arnhem itself.
Off we went down a little forest road and soon came upon a railway line where one of many German ambushes took place. Wybo knew exactly where the German machine gunners were and where the British were “pinned-down”. From this point we decided to follow John Frost’s 2nd Parachute Batallion’s route to the famous bridge. Again on the way Wybo would point out famous battle sites and explain what had happened there.
Eventually just as dusk was falling we arrived at the famous bridge...now called appropriately enough “John Frost Bridge”. The actual structure itself is a modern reconstruction built-in the same style as the original which was destroyed in 1945.
It was intensely moving to stand on almost the same position as the men of 2 Para and imagine yourself “back in time” all these years ago. To look across that bridge and see a huge German armoured column of battle-hardened SS Panzer Grenadiers coming your way and all you have are a few Brens...Lee Enfields...Stens...Piats and a couple of 6 pounder anti tank guns. Believe me it’s a very humbling experience.
After paying our respects at the small memorial plaque on the bridge Wybo very kindly invited me to visit his nearby house where his wife prepared a delicious Dutch meal for all three of us. After a very convivial evening (a few more Heinekens) I boarded the last evening train out of Arnhem headed back to Amsterdam.
What an amazing visit...what an incredible place and what gracious Dutch hosts! I will remember it forever.
I look forward to K&C’s revisit to “ARNHEM’44” in 2007. It will be a worthy tribute to the men of the British 1st Airborne and the incredible bravery and fortitude of the Dutch people!
Best wishes and...happy collecting!
Andy C.