Hi mate,
Its actually a lot easier than you think.Myself and my wife go almost every year to the Somme and Ypre(sometimes Normandy too)and we never go on a guided tour.All you need is a car and a copy of Major and Mrs Holts Battlefield guide and maps.Although things look spread out they are very easy to find with the maps.The Holts maps show all the memorials,cemeterys,VC sites,Pillboxes etc and are very easy to follow.I have seen guided tours in action and some of them are a disgrace.There is one famous tour company (i won't name them)who i watched as their guide sent the group off into Delville wood saying 'I'll wait here you go off and be back in half an hour' Hardly guiding!!!.
Also when your on your own you really get the atmosphere of the place.The eeriness of Sanctuary wood,the Bleakness of Passchendaele ridge and an unforgettable cold sunny dawn in Polygon wood,so moving its hard to keep a lump from your throat.I urge you to go mate,you'll never forget it and until you've experienced it you'll never know just what the silence on the Somme is really like.
P.S Another absolute Bible of the Western front is Rose coombs Before Endeavours Fade,wonderful book with great descriptions it was her labour of love taking her years to complete,a touch harder to follow than Holts but in some ways even better.(Only back in the mid 1970's she walked into a pillbox on the Somme and there were British Rifles piled in the corner!....The 1970's!!! Why couldn't i have been born ten years earlier!!!)
Rob
Thanks for the tips mate, a trip over there sounds extremely do-able!
The reason I'd be specifically curious about transport is because both myself and my girlfriend currently only hold provisional Irish driving licences, which would rule out renting and driving a car on the Continent for both of us, so getting around from site to site without some kind of organised programme could be that bit more tricky. But - where there's a will, there's always a way, and besides, I suppose it's just a further incentive for me to go and sit my driving test
.
Anyway, all things being equal, I think I'd be the same as you in preferring to take things at my own pace, spend longer at places that particularily interest me, less time at others, etc. I'm sure an awful lot of the tour groups that do military history themed trips like that are extremely sincere and valid, but you always run the risk of coming across bad examples like you mentioned.
Normandy I have done on a couple of different occasions, with parents, school tours, and it goes without saying how moving and evocative some of the locations there can be. Curiously enough, the first time I ever set foot in Normandy was aged six, in June 1994. Purely out of coincidence, my parents (who have absolutely no interest in military history) had booked a holiday home there for a fortnight, very near to Ste. Mere Eglise.
Of course, the two weeks we were staying were slap bang in the middle of the 50th anniversary celebrations, so the every village and town we visited was draped in Allied flags, and was filled with old gents in regimental blazers and berets - all of which made a massive impression on me. I've no doubts at all that that holiday was the first step towards an enduring interest and fascination with all things military related!
Cheers,
Molloy.