Figure Repair (2 Viewers)

[GulfportEagle77]

Just received a fresh batch of Mexican Reinforcements for my Alamo collection, problem is a couple of the plumes were broken off the hats... I've tried the super glue approach, but that doesn't seem to do the trick (no strong enough).

Anyone suggestions would be greatly appreciated?

I can probably send back to the vendor, as they have taken care of such things for me in the past.

John

 

[lenswerks]

I use Loctite Super Glue Control or Gel. Put a bit on paper towel and use a tooth pick to pick up just a bit and apply. It is a gel so much easier to use than the glues that are very thin. You can get it at any Home Depot.

Donnie

 

[Phantom Warrior]

Just received a fresh batch of Mexican Reinforcements for my Alamo collection, problem is a couple of the plumes were broken off the hats... I've tried the super glue approach, but that doesn't seem to do the trick (no strong enough).

Anyone suggestions would be greatly appreciated?

I can probably send back to the vendor, as they have taken care of such things for me in the past.

John

I use insta-cure plus but only the gap filling, thicker formulaa. Works great on polystone and other materials. I also use the toothpick technique

Terry

 

[Njja]

Excellent points! I found super-glue with twist off tops in different styles. I also use the tooth pick applicator and find it works very well on most materials.

 

[Obee]

John,

while Supa Glue will do the job, I find that because the plume is on top of the hat, its still very liable to damabe if knowked again. You will also have to be very careful with any spliiage of glue, as it will show as gloss, not matt.

What i do with any of my figures is to pin the plume back on.
"How do you do that"? I hear you all cry!

I drill into the plume with a 1mm (fine) drill, and a corresponding hole into the hat, then Supa Glue a similar sized diameter wire into the plume, and then attach the plue and pin into the hat.

If needed I retouch the plume/hat to match paint, and this will cover any spillage of glue or any flaking due to the damage.

I use the same techniquie for broken rifles / flagpoles / axes etc. Bayonets are a bit tricky, depending on thier diameter, but anything is achiveable in minature.

I'm sure some of the other members of this forum can back me up after seeing some of my work, and I'm always on the lokout for damaged figures, which are discounted, to repair and add to my collection.

regards,

John O'B

 

[Njja]

Excellent post, I can't imagine pegging parts that small, but its a great idea if you can do it.

Reguarding any excess glue that shows up glossy....easily fixed with a touch of clear matt finish.

 

[wayne556517]

Now i know where to go just around the corner and i can have a beer while you fix em,sounds good to me hey John.

 

[Phantom Warrior]

John,

while Supa Glue will do the job, I find that because the plume is on top of the hat, its still very liable to damabe if knowked again. You will also have to be very careful with any spliiage of glue, as it will show as gloss, not matt.

What i do with any of my figures is to pin the plume back on.
"How do you do that"? I hear you all cry!

I drill into the plume with a 1mm (fine) drill, and a corresponding hole into the hat, then Supa Glue a similar sized diameter wire into the plume, and then attach the plue and pin into the hat.

If needed I retouch the plume/hat to match paint, and this will cover any spillage of glue or any flaking due to the damage.

I use the same techniquie for broken rifles / flagpoles / axes etc. Bayonets are a bit tricky, depending on thier diameter, but anything is achiveable in minature.

I'm sure some of the other members of this forum can back me up after seeing some of my work, and I'm always on the lokout for damaged figures, which are discounted, to repair and add to my collection.

regards,

John O'B

Sounds great but unfortunately parts like that are just too small for me to drill. The best I can do is glue which I can do without the join being visible to the eye. And the thick Insta-cure+ does hold once it sets for 60 seconds

Terry

 

[The Templar]

Repair or model building! I use Zap-A-Gap - it holds everything - even two fingers - together!

 

[thebritfarmer]

Can I ask why you would want to fix them? If they are broken send them back to the dealers.

 

[jazzeum]

Can I ask why you would want to fix them? If they are broken send them back to the dealers.

I was about to say that. I'm sure they'll gladly replace it.

 

[Capitolron]

For the money you spent on a "NEW" figure - I would certainly send them back and ask for replacements or your money back !

 

[GulfportEagle77]

Can I ask why you would want to fix them? If they are broken send them back to the dealers.

I ended up asking for a replacement. The dealer I use has been great when stuff like that happens. I'm just impatient, and hate waiting for the replacement to arrive sometimes!

I was just curious if anyone knew of a trick that I hadn't thought of.

The drill sounds like a great idea, problem is I'd probably end up drilling through my finger or some other body part!

John

 

[Obee]

John,

you need a steady hand, keen eye, sharp drill bit, good light and patience to do this sort of repair.

Like you suggest,I'd return the broken figure, as it should come to you in 'good order' but when I mentioned the repair, thats usually done when the troops suffer 'battle damage' such as being dropped onto the floor, shelf breaking under the weight of too much lead, or (God forbid!) they are played with.

Enjoy....

John

 

[wayne556517]

Can I ask why you would want to fix them? If they are broken send them back to the dealers.

What if youve had it over a certain amount of period and break it accidently?

 

[Njja]

Then it would be time to drill and peg!

 

[Phantom Warrior]

What if youve had it over a certain amount of period and break it accidently?

It's a good idea to be able to make small repairs. Stuff can break when handled. A Hobby light/magnifyer, small tools, toothpicks, glue and some paint are all that's needed. Most K&C breaks are clean breaks and can be almost invisibly repaired. The pieces tend to be large and are easily handled. The Figarti stuff can mostly be repaired but they are more fragile than K&C. It's only some of the very tiny photo etched Figarti parts that are too small for me to manipulate and that has been a problem only once. Rick said bring it to Chicago and he will fix it there.

Terry

 

[King & Country]

Hi Guys,

I agree with virtually everything everyone says i.e. “If a figure arrives broken or damaged from a dealer (or a manufacturer) send it back immediately* for a replacement”.

However, all of us, yours truly included, can occasionally be careless or drop something accidentally… I believe my friend OBEE (John) was just trying to show you how with a little skill and patience you could do a “home repair”.

Best wishes and happy collecting!
Andy C.

P.S. One time a customer came into our HK shop with a box of long-retired soldiers, “I bought these from you a couple of years ago and they are damaged!”
The set in question was over 6 years old, the box was battered beyond recognition and the customer actually admitted he had let his 4 year old son play with them!!!
Now, what d’ you do?

 

[wayne556517]

It's a good idea to be able to make small repairs. Stuff can break when handled. A Hobby light/magnifyer, small tools, toothpicks, glue and some paint are all that's needed. Most K&C breaks are clean breaks and can be almost invisibly repaired. The pieces tend to be large and are easily handled. The Figarti stuff can mostly be repaired but they are more fragile than K&C. It's only some of the very tiny photo etched Figarti parts that are too small for me to manipulate and that has been a problem only once. Rick said bring it to Chicago and he will fix it there.

Terry

Long way to go from Australia might just pop over to Johns/Obee..... But then again Chicago is tempting.

 

[Phantom Warrior]

Hi Guys,

I agree with virtually everything everyone says i.e. “If a figure arrives broken or damaged from a dealer (or a manufacturer) send it back immediately* for a replacement”.

However, all of us, yours truly included, can occasionally be careless or drop something accidentally… I believe my friend OBEE (John) was just trying to show you how with a little skill and patience you could do a “home repair”.

Best wishes and happy collecting!
Andy C.

P.S. One time a customer came into our HK shop with a box of long-retired soldiers, “I bought these from you a couple of years ago and they are damaged!”
The set in question was over 6 years old, the box was battered beyond recognition and the customer actually admitted he had let his 4 year old son play with them!!!
Now, what d’ you do?

It really depends on the piece and the damage. Because everything I get is shipped 2 or 3 times to get to me (K&C > Distributor > Dealer > Me) there is a risk of breakage, some manufacturers more than other, and some pieces more than others. Fortunately almost every K&C piece arrives in good shape. But there have been a few exceptions.

One exception was the 88 (WS057) which not only was in short supply when I got it, but there had been a breakage problem with the spools on the model. When mine arrived, there was the dreaded extra piece in the box - one of the tow hooks from underneath the model. The dealer said send it back but it was easily repaired perfectly vs the cost of return shipping and the next one possibly having a broken spool which would be much harder to fix.

So there are exceptions to sending it back. The only K&C piece I had to have replaced was one of the Iwo Jima sets - the tip of the flame thrower had broken off and i couldnt repair it invisibly.

Terry