My alamo sculpts...... (1 Viewer)

BlakeWR85

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This is what I've got done so far, just the legs :tongue:, I've started on 2 sizes, one is about 54mm and the other is about 60mm. This is my first attempt with milliput (I've been done with super sculpey, and now I think I'm possibly done with greenstuff). These two particular figs are going to be New Orleans Grays, if you couldn't tell by the style of pants ;) Sorry for the dim fuzzy photos :redface2:
 

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I think these are looking really good. Wrinkles are hard to do.

You say you are done with greenstuff - how do you think Milliput compares to PreCreate? (I use ProCreate for my work) I also build my under skeleton out of Magic Sculpt. It's like pottery clay when working with it, but dries concrete hard. You can grind it, drill it, file it. Really nice stuff to work with to get the basic shape down. here's an example, The feet will be filed down a bit. I always add these blobs around the feet to help it stand while it dries.

Matthew
magic sculpt armature 1.jpg
 
I think these are looking really good. Wrinkles are hard to do.

You say you are done with greenstuff - how do you think Milliput compares to PreCreate? (I use ProCreate for my work) I also build my under skeleton out of Magic Sculpt. It's like pottery clay when working with it, but dries concrete hard. You can grind it, drill it, file it. Really nice stuff to work with to get the basic shape down. here's an example, The feet will be filed down a bit. I always add these blobs around the feet to help it stand while it dries.

Matthew

Thanks Matthew, yes, wrinkles are hard, I just sorta let them happen, really no plan, that makes it easier :) It's sorta of a "Bob Ross" approach.

Greenstuff is a step up from super sculpey. I started with super sculpey, at first I thought I'd like the infinite work-time, but I kept smudging what I already sculpted, and I can't keep baking it every time I finish a piece because I heard it'll crack. Plus small details were hard to achieve.

So I discovered greenstuff, I'm using kneadatite blue/yellow, I don't know if there is a difference between the other brands like army builder, games workshop, etc.? It holds detail very well, but it is very tacky, so I have to rub the tools on my forehead often to "grease" them so they won't stick; also, it is not very malleable. Once you've applied some putty to the figure, then you decide that you need to add more, it is hard to "erase" the lines between the two pieces of putty. The plus side is that it dried over time, so I could really "manhandle" the dried figure when sculpting other new parts. Plus, as it hardened, I could make different pieces. Example: when it is first mixed and still soft, I could apply large pieces to make basic shapes, but as it hardened, it became less tacky, so I would roll it out and make belts, straps, etc. Like I said, it holds detail very well, it's just hard to achieve it.

Then yesterday I decided to try milliput, superfine white (like my wife ^&grin), and I definitely cannot back to the others, because I love this stuff! First, it hardens as I go which I consider a must. A new dimension that the others didn't have is the use of water. Once I start a basic shape, you can use water to lubricate the putty, which makes it softer and malleable on the surface, it's like real clay, except I don't have to bake it! Then it starts to set-up some, then I find that I need less and less water as I go, and that is when I really can make really detailed wrinkles.

I don't know about procreate or magic sculpt, but I'm glad you mentioned them, every since my impasse on the greenstuff, I've been looking for something new, milliput just happens to be the first one I chose. But I did research procreate, and I'm interested in trying it, what do you find are some pros and cons? What is magic sculpt like? I'm assuming it's inferior since you use it for underlayers?

Whenever I used super sculpey, I use to build-up a thick skeleton of clay, but it was sorta chunky, I found it harder to make wrinkles this way. Once I just started using one type of putty and applying it directly to the wire and sculpting till it dried, it became easier to make wrinkles, because it had enough softness to make deeper wrinkles.
 
Today's work: the upper body.......
 

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Hi Blake,

The torso is looking nice.

With regard to Magic Sculpt. It works the same way as milliput based on your description. It mixes by volume only, so a 50/50 mix. It can be smoothed with water, and I have gotten some nice results from it in addition to doing under skeletons. If you want flowing robes or capes, I think it's the thing to use. My son wants a batman sculpt and I was just playing around with magic sculpt and was able to get a nice looking cape blowing in the wind. Again, it is a rather soft clay when you start out. Like pottery clay, but it can be blended an smoothed with water. For fine detail, I just go back to ProCreate, but I think for you Milliput is a great medium. I may pick some Milliput up and see how well it works mixed in with ProCreate - Some times the fine edges, I'd like to be a bit firmer.

Matthew
 
Really good drapery and folds but......check to see if the 1830s was still the era of broad fall front trousers (like the 1700s and Napoleonic era) and not fly front. In either case a waist belt was only to hold up a cartridge box and bayonet, not one's pants in that era. I've worn them and either the tailoring and waist band works or suspenders are worn. Also is that a cartridge box or haversack on his right side? Some really fine sculpting but "buffs" of the period won't notice if period details are off.

More photos as you progress please.
 
Really good drapery and folds but......check to see if the 1830s was still the era of broad fall front trousers (like the 1700s and Napoleonic era) and not fly front. In either case a waist belt was only to hold up a cartridge box and bayonet, not one's pants in that era. I've worn them and either the tailoring and waist band works or suspenders are worn. Also is that a cartridge box or haversack on his right side? Some really fine sculpting but "buffs" of the period won't notice if period details are off.

More photos as you progress please.

Hey Scott, thanks for the compliments, I appreciate the suggestions....after all, I tell people that I sculpt historical miniatures, not toy soldiers, so they should be historical, right? ^&grin I've checked into some info about the pants, I think you may be right. Right now I'm just learning techniques, how different mediums react, and how I can use different tools. So I'm still in the "infant" stage of sculpting, just learning how to construct a soldier for now. Whenever I become more consistent, master some techniques, and become overall better, that's when I'll crack down on historical accuracy, just got a permit for my "artistic" license :tongue: I'm one of those guys who will pick out little details if they are not right, so in the future, if I'm going to go through all the trouble of sculpting something, then why not sculpt the right (historical) thing? So I'll have a lot of questions and need help from guys like you to give me a hand. As for the thing on his side, it's both. Three of the pictures show a haversack, which after looking at it for a while, is kinda bulky, looks really full! Only the frontal view is a picture after I added a cartridge box. Since then, I've added the cartridge box strap and buckle, and am starting on a canteen on his other hip....I didn't think it was enough to show photos of again, at least until more is done. By the way, what hat did the NOG's wear? There is the version that we see on conte's and K&c's, even in the billy bob alamo.....then there is this pinwheel looking hat, seen on older britains alamo greys, even in gary zaboly art. I think they're called chako's? (According to dirty billy's hats). What is historically accurate? Any other historical suggestions are not limited to these questions, anyone who wants to chime in on alamo accuracies (number of buttons of pants/jackets/vests, type of knives, powder horns, canteens, shoes, haversacks, etc.), feel free :smile2:

Hi Blake,

The torso is looking nice.

With regard to Magic Sculpt. It works the same way as milliput based on your description. It mixes by volume only, so a 50/50 mix. It can be smoothed with water, and I have gotten some nice results from it in addition to doing under skeletons. If you want flowing robes or capes, I think it's the thing to use. My son wants a batman sculpt and I was just playing around with magic sculpt and was able to get a nice looking cape blowing in the wind. Again, it is a rather soft clay when you start out. Like pottery clay, but it can be blended an smoothed with water. For fine detail, I just go back to ProCreate, but I think for you Milliput is a great medium. I may pick some Milliput up and see how well it works mixed in with ProCreate - Some times the fine edges, I'd like to be a bit firmer.

Matthew

Thanks matthew, I think I'm gonna try and pick up some procreate to see how it works. Thanks for the info :)
 
Looking on with great interest. These are looking excellent
Mitch
 
Nice looking sculpts so far. Looking on with great interest.

Forgive my ignorance, but are these sculpts for your personal enjoyment or will these figures be offered for sale at some point?
 
Nice looking sculpts so far. Looking on with great interest.

Forgive my ignorance, but are these sculpts for your personal enjoyment or will these figures be offered for sale at some point?

Thanks.......I started out doing this for personal enjoyment, but I'm started to second guess that, I'm beginning to think in terms of prototyping for production now, whether on my own, or freelancing for an established company........maybe we'll see after I complete this figure :)
 
Assume if your produced them on your own they would be cast in metal?

Any thought to how many you might sculpt?

Thanks.......I started out doing this for personal enjoyment, but I'm started to second guess that, I'm beginning to think in terms of prototyping for production now, whether on my own, or freelancing for an established company........maybe we'll see after I complete this figure :)
 
Assume if your produced them on your own they would be cast in metal?

Any thought to how many you might sculpt?

Metal would be a better choice I believe, just more of an adult market than plastic I think; probably the only way plastic would work is if an established company wanted to make them, TSSD for example.

I'd really like to start out with at least 6 nice sculpts..........then can go from there....

What really helps is using milliput, it has really expedited the process, in terms of sculpting more, and a lot quicker, and making for a nicer sculpt in my opinion....
 
The Torso s Look Good.
Will You Sculpt Original Heads or
Use Existing Heads ?
 
The Torso s Look Good.
Will You Sculpt Original Heads or
Use Existing Heads ?

Thanks, my plan is to sculpt every piece myself, this way it will be completely my own work, trying to avoid plagiarism for the future :wink2:

You can look at some of my other threads I've posted, there's a few examples of heads I've done, although none with my new discovery of milliput......
 
Got the cartridge box strap and buckle on.....and holes drilled into the dried milliput so I could add the "arms," I put fresh putty to hold the wires in place, whenever they harden, I'll shape the arms to where I want them, then add the "meat." As you can see, I've decided on a pose, a popular favorite, standing firing. I'll add a picture of my rifle when I have more done. Here's the pic, enjoy......
 

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Hi Blake,

It's looking good, but I was surprised when you posted that it would be a firing pose. The stance of the body is wrong for a firing pose. I think you might want to change it to something that matches your figure's stance. Shouldered arms, maybe? If he were to fire a weapon he would fall over standing like that.

I'm not trying to bash your work, it looks great, but it is just not a firing pose you have there.

Matthew
 
Just for the record, the plastic markets average age is probably 55.

Metal would be a better choice I believe, just more of an adult market than plastic I think; probably the only way plastic would work is if an established company wanted to make them, TSSD for example.

I'd really like to start out with at least 6 nice sculpts..........then can go from there....

What really helps is using milliput, it has really expedited the process, in terms of sculpting more, and a lot quicker, and making for a nicer sculpt in my opinion....
 

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