Still painting! (1 Viewer)

[Dragoon]

Have been putting this old kit of a Second Lieutenant London Scottish together lately and wasn't happy with his left hand as it is sculptured as though it is holding something. I thought of making a map to fit there but wasn't convinced.

I took some inspiration from my favourite Wilson Edward figure, the Light Horseman having a brew whilst leaning against the tree stump. I found an old 1/35 cup in the Dragon union infantry kit and fitted it up. I think it looks pretty good and will paint it up as an enamel type mug.

Looking forward to putting some paint on this figure. An amazing amount of detail on this figure that wasn't noticeable till the primer had dried, along with a few other faults revealed by the first primer coat.

Scott

Nice job Scott, The cup fits perfectly with the figure. Looking forward to seeing it all painted up. Hope you do it in a gloss finish, but of course that's up to you. :wink2: - Ken

 

[johnnybach]

Hi Ken - thanks a lot for the information about the Tamiya Clear X-22 product. I don't mind brushing - as that is all I have ever done! Bad news is - I went to my "local" model shop here over the weekend - to find it converted back to a house, complete with net curtains - with a sign on the door saying " Closed for good - I've retired"

Aaargh!

Looked online - and found the nearest place now is about an hour and a half away. If I get a 'plane ticket to the UK and stock up - I can't bring it back on the plane as it is an inflamatory liquid!!! They've got you all ways down here! So, it's a day out with lunch for "La Commandante" and me - and a new tom-tom input!

Hope this new shop is a good one!!

Thanks for the info though - I'll give it a try - and might even try a bit of smuggling!

"Anything to declare sir?"

"Nope - no tinlets at all" (Doh!)

Good luck with the figure Scott - looks like a good 'un - sorry to use your thread this way!

 

[marco55]

Dutkins Collectibles here in the states and a shop in the Netherlands still carry New Hope Designs.
Mark

 

[Hazebrouck]

Johnny Bach,

Just a thought regarding the Tamiya gloss coat. As you paint in batches it might be worth using the Tamiya gloss through an airbrush if it thins OK. A couple of wettish coats, similar to using aerosol and you won't have to worry about dragging the colours with a brush.


Anyone know how to mix lavender colour? I have Vallejo 70946 Dark Red which is almost lavender before you mix it. Am worried that just adding white will make musk colour. The hose tops are meant to be lavender on this figure.

See Post 7-

http://gmic.co.uk/index.php/topic/43995-the-14th-londons-london-scottish-in-wwi/

Scott

 

[johnnybach]

Hi Scott - That's a thought - although I think I will try a few options before going down the air-brush route. I'm okay with brushing - just need to be patient and wait for the thing to be thoroughly dry before applying by brush.

I don't use vallejo - just Humbrol for me - as I'm a glossy-man through and through - and like Obee - its all I've ever used. If you are after Hodden Grey - I did some 1980 London Scottish figures in that Colour by mixing dark red with various greys (I think it was light grey) and maybe a splash of Ivory - all Humbrols of course.

What I do is mix up small drops of a first guess - then paint it on a white marge tub lid and let it dry (noting what I have used next to it in pencil). Let it dry - as it usually lightens it - then compare with a decent picture (like the ones you have).

Do a few experiments like this - and then go with the one that fits best. I did a 1990 small band - this is the colour that came out using my mix.(pic below). Remember though, that in real life, you get various shades of colour with things like socks, due to age and washing (or not!!). You can get ten blokes stood next to each other - and no two will be EXACTLY the same. "Old Sweats" always try to get their clobber a bit lighter!!

I need to re-do the socks though on these - as the pic I was using wasn't all that good - and I took a punt on pale khaki with dark blue cross hatching - they actually should be Hodden Grey too with a paler blue. When I have 5 minutes - I will re-do them!!!

So - maybe try a pale grey with your dark red - as a first guess - then play about with variations??? Hope that helps
johnnybach

 

[Hazebrouck]

Finished my London Scottish officer and am fairly happy with the result.

The enamel cup turned out well.

Managed to find Games Workshop colours for the Lavender hose tops and Hodden Grey (hormagaunt purple and calthan brown). I don't rate their colour charts, however I gave the bottles a good shake and the colours seem fairly close.

It has been wet here and I should have waited before applying the gloss coat. The finish is fine on the Vallejo paints and slightly dull on the Games workshop- I'm not sure whether to put that down to the paint or humidity (you can notice it on the figures gloves). Live and learn.

Am planning on starting a Korean War Bren Gunner kit next, unless I get sidetracked.

Hope the figure is of some interest to the forum!

Scott

 

[johnnybach]

What a smart chap! Having a cuppa too - turned out well. Glad to see he's got his mac' - never know when a spot or two might arrive. Love the gloss on him - I might be able to get close to that finish myself now!! Thanks for that - will look forward to Billy on the bren! ^&grin johnnybach

 

[Hazebrouck]

Just finished my korean war Aussie Bren gunner. The figure is an old Ozmade- I'm not sure if this company is still around but the figures appear on e-bay every now and then.

Fun to make and the only Korean War figure I've seen downunder!

Scott

 

[hsm]

Finished my London Scottish officer and am fairly happy with the result.

The enamel cup turned out well.

Managed to find Games Workshop colours for the Lavender hose tops and Hodden Grey (hormagaunt purple and calthan brown). I don't rate their colour charts, however I gave the bottles a good shake and the colours seem fairly close.

It has been wet here and I should have waited before applying the gloss coat. The finish is fine on the Vallejo paints and slightly dull on the Games workshop- I'm not sure whether to put that down to the paint or humidity (you can notice it on the figures gloves). Live and learn.

Am planning on starting a Korean War Bren Gunner kit next, unless I get sidetracked.

Hope the figure is of some interest to the forum!

Scott

who makes this? what a great figure!

Grant

 

[Hazebrouck]

Grant,

The 2nd Lieutenant of the London Scottish Regiment is an old Men-at-Arms series figure by New Hope Design. The figure's catalogue number is MAA 66. I have replaced the original base with an Old Guard one as they look better.

It looks available from this site-

http://www.mbmmodels.com/1-32/newhope/6/ma0066pic.htm

They are nice kits to build and paint.

Scott

 

[Hazebrouck]

Have been down in the workshop finishing off some Dragons recently and decided to give the Testors Dullcote a go with these. These are 2004 release U.S 29th Division D-Day figures. Pre Generation 2, which although the detail level is outstanding I find a bit fiddly as I get older.

I made Obee style bases from a scrap steel I had lying around and painted them toy soldier style, only shading the faces. Still learning and mucking around with eyes!

Maybe Obee could tell me how he achieves that 'speckled' finish on his bases? I left these ones a sand colour.

Back to some metal figures next and yes I'm still happy painting figures as the stockmarket heads south once more!

Scott

 

[Hazebrouck]

I finished this figure restoration yesterday- it has taken a few weeks to finish this one.

It is an old New Hope Designs Highland Sergeant which I have painted as a Gordon Highlander circa 1815. There is a before shot, that is before recycling.

I found this one on e-bay for less than a large coffee and stripped and reglued his arms and also had to fabricate his sword from half a split pin and milliput. My first attempt at sculpting (a skill that is nowhere as easy as it looks), I think it looks OK. Made the base out of a welding shop pipe end plug.

Have paid a bit of attention to Obee's previous painting advice for the tartan and head dress dicing and starting to get the eyes right.

Happy painting!

Scott

 

[johnnybach]

Nice one - it makes me smile a bit to see in other parts of the forum, how some folks are fearful that collectors are being "priced out of the hobby"!

Seems "the hobby" is just collecting ready-painted items at $40-plus. Just goes to show what can be done for the price of a cup of coffee. Okay - they take a while to complete - especially with the amount of detail you include for the tartan - but insn't that part of the challenge?

I don't know how you are doing the thin black lining Scott, but I use a Uni-pin Fine Line waterproof pen (size 0.05) - which is much easier to control than a paint brush. Also, you might consider using steel washer (I use 1" diameter) for the bases - they keep 'em very stable. Obee's tartan painting site is excellent eh?

Nice figure - especially like the eyes and headgear. Well done - johnnybach

 

[Hazebrouck]

Seems "the hobby" is just collecting ready-painted items at $40-plus. Just goes to show what can be done for the price of a cup of coffee. Okay - they take a while to complete - especially with the amount of detail you include for the tartan - but insn't that part of the challenge?

Thanks Johnny.

My approach to the hobby is recession proof so I have little to complain about regard costs- mainly paint and brushes!

There seem to be plenty of threads here about the rising cost of figures and vehicles and I really can't add to it as they aren't what I collect. Thinking about it though this hobby has changed significantly from when I first became interested as a youngster and in a way I haven't quite caught up with the times!

I picked up an old book by John G Garratt the other day called "Model Soldiers for the Connoisseur" printed in 1972. It is worth hunting down a copy as it is a great snapshot of the hobby at the time and gives some good biographical information on the men behind the small companies and how they got started. Most of the collectors mentioned painted their own figures, including the author who strangely has written his own biography in the third person.

The point about the Garratt book being that the hobby has changed significantly since then and I wonder how those pioneers of the hobby would view it now. I don't think there are as many hobbyists around now, the shift is more to collectors which is fine.

I find hunting around for the old figures part of the fun of the hobby and $40.00 Australian dollars would likely buy a few old figures. I've been using a fine sharpie for the tartan and also a brush. I do need to get the lines straighter for the tartan so I'll keep practising. I've an old Royal Scots Fusilier figure in the pit lane wearing trews that I might try next.

Have you got any tips for painting the hose? I find it difficult getting the cross pattern right on the legs.

Scott

 

[johnnybach]

Hi Scott - will keep my eyes open for book described.

I join you in thinking MY hobby is (more or less) recession proof. PYO (painting your own) is far more fun - and the search - or even chance find - is all part of the fun too.

Now then - socks for jocks. I find these difficult too.

I usually paint these wearing spats - but full lenghth ones are more or leass the same - just longer.


I took illustrations like the one below, which are just excellent, as my guide for painting socks with spats.

Then I developed this way of getting there - see sketch below:

I first paint all of the sock with coats of Ivory (in this case) until I'm satisfied with the depth of colour. Then, starting from Fig.1 - paint a freehand diagonal pink stripe on the sock from mid point of top of the sock at the side down to rear centre of the back of the leg to meet the spat. Do the same on the other side (Fig2) to make a V when looking from the rear of the figure.

Then go to Fig.3 and paint another diagonal line from centre-point of the top rear of the sock across the first line to meet the spat - immediately below where you first started - to make an X when viewed from the side. Do the same the other side - to look like Fig.4.

The front and side views are painted in exactly the same way (bottom row of Figs.. Then do the same to the other leg - and you end up with something like my two figures shown below this.

Note that the left hand figure is finished - whilst the drummer is a first pass. I usually go back over the pink lines more carefully to ensure the lines in the sock are evenly painted. Note that the lines are a deep pink - and where they cross, when the pink is dry - I go over each the diamond shape where the pink lines cross with red. When dry again - you can complete any added detail like "tabs" - or a painted red line around the sock with a tab at the side.

VERY fiddly - and very time consuming and something I find quite difficult. With a lot of old britains figures - they didn't even try! Looks nice when you get it right though. For longer socks - just keep the diagonal lines going down and around. I do them all freehand now - but when I first started - I used to use a faint drawn pencil line drawn onto the sock first as a guide. I also "had a go" on cheapo plastic figures first.

That's the way I do it now.

Does that help??

Good luck chum - all the best - johnnybach

 

[theBaron]

Very nice Highlander, Scott! Where did the turkey come from, or did you sculpt the bird?

I agree with you and John regarding our flavor of the hobby. When the finished figure collectors complain about the high prices, I remind them that painting your own is much more economical. Learn to cast, and you can save even more, and if you teach yourself to sculpt, you might get others to pay you

Prost!
Brad

 

[Hazebrouck]

Johnny,

That is very helpful and very comprehensive. I'm going to have a break from the highlanders for a figure or two and then have another go using your technique. I've even thought of drawing the lines on the hose in pencil lightly first and then go over them with paint. They are fiddly!

Brad,

Wish I could say that I sculpted the bird but he came as part of the casting- part of the attraction of that particular figure. I know you made one a while back with good results.

I only sculpted the top of the sword and didn't find it a simple task. I've been watching Captain Kronos threads on casting and admire what he is doing. I think some conversions might be a more realistic next step for myself.

Scott

 

[johnnybach]

Hi Scott - yes - good idea to give jocks a break for a bit. I call it "Tartan-itis" - when you just get a bit fed up with the intricate bits and pieces for a while. Its nice to break things up with something completely different for a while. I too just love what Cap'n K is doing - but don't think I will follow his example just yet - as I much prefer to let someone else do all the tricky bits - whilst converting ad painting is what I really enjoy - and I guess I'm just too old a dog now - to learn new tricks.

Mind you, if ever ALL castings suppliers start taking the mick too much, I may reconsider learning how to make and cast my own. I have seen nearly twenty quid quoted for a mounted figure as a casting lately - plus 20% P&P - which comes out as £24 - which I just would not want to pay for a single unpainted figure.{eek3} Thankfully - there still appear to be plenty of the smaller suppliers around at more sensible prices - and there are thankfully always plenty of swap-meets and boot sales for the occasional pick-up of stuff to repair, repaint and convert.

I will be off to the UK for a spell soon - so hope to pick up some supplies from my "usual suspects" - which will keep me busy through the winter months. I'll keep painting and posting from time to time - and hope you do too.

see ya - johnnybach

 

[johnnybach]

Scott - I meant to add - that some suppliers make swords and other weapons that you can buy - quite reasonably - to add on to figures. John Parslow of whitemetamail-miniatures - and Dorset Soldiers are just two. I usually pick up a few swords in scabbards for pence each from both of those suppliers and keep themby me as spares - and they either fit just as they are - or can be modified to fit most figures - so why bother to sculpt one ( as you did for your Scottish figure) - when you can buy three for less than £1? Unless, of course, or like to "have a go". Just a thought. jb

 

[Hazebrouck]

Finished this old Imrie Risley kit this morning- the marching doughboy for my Great War collection! A really nicely proportioned figure and a real toy soldier.

I've seen some castings of this figure around but this is an original kit. Most of the castings seem to have the rifle positioned too high, whereas Charles Risley's artwork shows the forward part of the stock nearly touching the entrenching tool cover. Anybody able to clarify the correct position?

Scott