Which glue for metal figures? (1 Viewer)

[bearybones]

This question is for those of you, who either rework the pewter figures, such as King and Country, or who make the metal figurs kits. Is there a better glue to use, other than Superglue or Crazyglue, or do you recommend one of those?

Also, What do you recommend to use to fill in gaps and rework areas on the same metal figures: something that can be carved, sanded and painted, when it dries. Is there some "pewter in a tube" sort of stuff?

Any advice will be appreciated.

Thanks, George

 

[Ragnar]

I allways use LOCTITE on my kits.
It comes in a small bottle with a trigger on each side so you can control the drops.
I might use the same bottle for a year..they don't seem to dry up like some of the hobby glue's.

 

[aujj65]

I have used the Gel type Super Glue for many years and never had any problems, I use a cocktail stick to wipe the surplus around the joint and this tends to fill any minor gaps as well as strengthening the joint.

Jeff

 

[theBaron]

Hi, George,

Any cyanoacylate (CA) glue sold for hobby use should work; Zap-a-Gap is one brand, the Hobbytown hobby shop chain has its own brand, and there are others.

You might find that a brand has different formulas, too, for fluidity. For example, it might a formula that sets quickly, in 1 or 2 seconds, and one that sets a little slower, up to 5 seconds, which gives you adjustment time.

CA glues often have an accompanying harderner, that you spray on the glued area, to help accelerate the curing time. Zap-a-Gap has one.

Those glues are good for filling gaps in joints, because they flow.

For joints, you might want to use a 2-part epoxy, which usually have a longer curing time, and give you time to make adjustments. And if you're not already doing so, I recommend pegging any joints by drilling a hole in both pieces, and cutting a piece of wire or brass rod to use as a pin between them. That will strengthen the joint and give you more surface area for the glue, as opposed to a butt join of two flat surfaces.

I mix mine on a piece of plastic card (those fake credit cards that come in the mail are perfect for this) and I do as Jeff does, I use a toothpick to mix and apply the glue. 2-part epoxy can also be used to fill gaps and joints.

I agree with Jeff's observation, too, that some glue may ooze out around the joint and fill any gaps.

These glues can take sanding, once they've dried and cured, so you can smooth the join back down to the profile of the surrounding surface.

Hope that helps, prosit!
Brad

 

[nshighlander]

Hi
I`m the same as Ragnar.I`ve used LOCTITE for 12 years,great stuff.
Cheers
Dave

 

[mestell]

Hi George. I have used a product called "Gorilla Glue" with much success with a variety of materials including metal. This product works very well for metal parts that are "pinned" or, that is have a male and female connection. I would not recommend it for mending clean breaks, especially on small item.

For actual "new construction" I have also successfully used a CA glue, as mentioned by others, called Insta-Cure made by Hobby Horse. With it I use the accelerator for it called Insta-Set, also made by Hobby Horse.

The "Locktite" suggestion has perked my interest also and I am going to check that lead out myself.

Mike

 

[fishead19690]

Zap a gap glue works great for me on metal kits! I used it on over a couple of hundred metal casting kits and never had a problem.
2 party epoxy putty is the stuff you want for filling and sanding. The a/b type putty can be carved and sanded when dry and most have a pretty good working time before they get hard.
There are a bunch of different ones out there I,d suggest a green stuff type putty. Mix 1 to 1 yellow and blue and when it turns green its fully mixed.

Games work shop makes a green stuff and a couple of others also.
Tamiya also has a nice 2 part putty. These are cleaner to work with and you get less for your money but you can also get plumming type 2 part puttys like millput wich are a bit softer and tend to get all over your hands but can go a long way and with a bit of water added for softening you can get some great detail from them and save some money.

I,d suggest you give a few different ones a try and see what works best for you but you might want to start with the geen stuff.

 

[bearybones]

Thanks so much to all who responded to my question. I appreciate the excellent advice I received from each and every one of you. With so many experienced collectors and modelers aboard, this forum is a great source of information. While I'm on here, I'd like to wish every one of you and your families a very Happy Thanksgiving.

George