Highland Light Infantry Band (1 Viewer)

[johnnybach]

On to the next pic. Just done the white lines of the tartan. Note that I'm trying for the effect of tartan - and not trying to reproduce exactly Martin's Scottish jim-jams. As they are thinnish lines - they should dry very quickly - and then I'll paint on the red line.

Back shortly - jb

 

[johnnybach]

And here they are with the red line added to the tartan. Whilst I had the red paint in use, I touched in any red already on the figure that required it. If you make any mistakes - leave it for now as wet paint will smudge - just go back and correct it later. Note that there are less red lines than the white - don't overdo it!

Now need to wait for the paint to dry - as the arms will be fitted next. This time gives an opportunity to paint the instruments and hands before fitting, as they are easier to do off the figure.

 

[trooper]

Reference the question of the pouchbelt shown in the photograph. Have researched deeper and found that this was adopted post 1906 by the 2nd Btn. Another example of putting an individual stamp on the Btn. despite the standardisation of the uniforms in that year. Hope this helps clarify things. Trooper

 

[johnnybach]

Hi Trooper. What a Gent - clarifies things enormously. So what this means is that the copy of my photo is of the 2nd battalion and post 1906. Well - that puts the Military Band I am going to make as that then. And as my other band is going to have drums (Bugles and pipes) - the whole lot can be the 2nd Battalion too. Thanks - yet again. jb

 

[Martin Tabony]

Reference the question of the pouchbelt shown in the photograph. Have researched deeper and found that this was adopted post 1906 by the 2nd Btn. Another example of putting an individual stamp on the Btn. despite the standardisation of the uniforms in that year. Hope this helps clarify things. Trooper

Thanks for that, it also explains why I made the Assaye colour!

Martin

 

[johnnybach]

Thanks for that, it also explains why I made the Assaye colour!

Martin

Once I have finished both bands - I intend to do the Colour party - with the three Colours too. Might even do both Battalions and have five! BUT gotta finish the next figure first. jb

 

[johnnybach]

Righto - fitting the arm/ instrument (second bombardon) to the figure. I had already ensured that the arm instrument fitted the figure perfectly by dry fitting. I then marked the figure under the base, to ensure I fitted it to the correct one. If the instrument won't go over the head - remove the head with a saw - and refit head later by driling and pinning. But - not required on this occasion. Moisten the arm-hole with gel super-glue - and fit the arm by carefully dropping the thing over the head and locating to the hole. Fit lug on arm into the hole in the figure's shoulder and slot in some tiny pre-prepared small rolls of milliput to hold in place. I use a cocktail stick to help with this. Hold gently in place until the glue allows you to release pressure, and make sure it is EXACTLY where you want it to be. Adjust - where required.

Continue shaping the milliput with your chosen tool - to leave a small bed around the shoulder - for the wing to set into ( see next pics)

The wings are made from a (used) blister pack for pills. If you aren't ill enough - get some cough sweets - pretending to cough whilst purchasing - or tell the gal they are for "a friend"! By trial and error, cut off a corner of the material to make a fingernail-like piece. The material bends easily between finger and thumb - and holds its shape. Offer up to shoulder, and alter, until it is a perfect fit - using the tools shown ( get permission from the Toolowner first!^&grin).

I find a small tweezers are a perfect tool for offering up. When all seems okay - moisten the inside of the fingernail shape with a small amount of gel adhesive - and set into the tiny milliput bed and hold in place until the glue hold ( seconds). I then use a moistened wooden cocktail stick ( the ones for drowning olives in cocktails!) to maneouvre the wing. Then, once set, push pre-prepared tiny rolls of milliput underneath the wing and onto the arm - and sculpt to hold the whole thing in place permanently. It won't take long to set beautifully. [It gets easier - the more times you do it].

Finally, you end up with it looking like this. leave to set for at least three hours - or longer - smoothing off any residue of milliput. I'll paint it white later on. The tiny dimples in the material are also great for holding paint. jb

 

[johnnybach]

Next two pics show new figure with second arm off - ready for assembly - with completed figure behind:

And second arm on - with wing fitted seconds later - it's that quick - especially with a loose arm like this. Where it meets the instrument - a touch of glue is all that is required. I will pack underneath the wing with milliput and sculpt it in - as before. Note that I purposely DO NOT paint the top of the arm inside or out - or the receiving socket - to aid adhesion. I have done this for years now - with no loss of arm or wing ever. When finished - it's a very strong joint. jb

 

[theBaron]

Nicely done on the wings, John! I've got some foil from yoghurt and other containers saved, for this kind of application--thicker that kitchen foil, and not so bendy as lead foil.

I do say, though, I had expected you to make the lace strips out of putty, I was a little disappointed that you just painted them on ^&grin

Seriously, they look great, prosit!
Brad

 

[johnnybach]

Hah! - Yo Brad - If I had been making just one - maybe some putty for the lace, - BUT -as I intend making over 80 figures - I think a dab of paint will do. I only have one life - and I'm getting past my sell-by date quite soon now!!!!!{sm2} Yikes!

I'm making a BAND - not just one figure - there's a big difference.:rolleyes2: jb

 

[johnnybach]

So this is where I'm currently at with the project. This will be my front rank of the Military Band - which have just had their new wings applied to the shoulders of four of them, and are yet unpainted ( the last figure has painted wings) - and is as far as I'm going to go with him - and the other 80 plus figures, when I'm done with the project I've planned.

I'll be happy with them like this last figure - and I'm just showing you how I do it. jb

 

[Malcolm Britain]

Smashing stuff from any perspectives but particularly from this trainee hobbyists!. Great research, useful techniques (wings and tartan painting in particular) clear and detailed photos plus the superb looking results so far.

Thanks for sharing all this. Cant wait for the first parade!
Malcolm

 

[johnnybach]

Smashing stuff from any perspectives but particularly from this trainee hobbyists!. Great research, useful techniques (wings and tartan painting in particular) clear and detailed photos plus the superb looking results so far.

Thanks for sharing all this. Cant wait for the first parade!
Malcolm

Glad you are liking them so far Malcolm. Brad (The Baron) raises an interesting point though. How far do you go with "realism" when painting Toy Soldiers?

I tend to agree with James Opie, who raises just that point in his book "Collecting Toy Soldiers" (1987). His - (and my) view, is that you need to keep in mind just what you are trying to achieve. If you are going after realism - then by all means put in every last detail and make each part as realistic as you possibly can - even down to painting in matte paints with shadows etcetera painted in. However, extreme realism such as this could detract from what you are trying to achieve - when - as here I am trying to make a large-ish Glossy TS band. Instead of the eye seeing " A Band" - it will be drawn to the minutia of (say) some feather plume - or a lace feature on a figure. I also agree with another of his views - that Toy Soldiers ALWAYS look best " en Masse" - and that's just why I like shiny, biggish Bands.

I also like older TS styles - like that of the hollowcast Britains - maybe Trophy and even Bill Hocker's of today. All Glossy, you may note - and perhaps a simpler "style" than say K&C ( just to take one modern and highly popular maker). Not knocking them for that - their figures can look wonderful - or even better perhaps, when some hobbyists give them a coat or two of varnish - to make them shine - like Konrad (Kogu).

Horses for courses, I say. I like shiny Toy Soldiers in the somewhat simpler style of yesteryear - and that's what I am trying to achieve with my Band. It may take me some time - but (hopefully) I'll get there in the end. As I said earlier - I'm glad you like them so far - and hope I can inspire you to keep on painting - just as I was myself a few years back when I picked up a brush once again, because I was inspired by another painter you see on here from time to time,(He knows who he is). I apologise in advance for my photography - but hope you can at least see what I'm trying to do!

All the best - keep at it - johnnybach

 

[johnnybach]

The latest developments with the front rank of my Military band are shown below. I completed all of the elements that needed attention roughly above the jacket-line ( and the fly plaid hanging down at the rear. Things such as belt buckles, buttons to cuffs, musical instrument ends ( left unpainted - as usesful points to hold onto whilst painting), and other tiny details were completed. Then - once everything was dry - onto the Trews. A basic couple of coats of matte Oxford Blue once again forms the base-coat for this Tartan. I think I will leave these to completely dry overnight now - before once again painting on the Green grid of lines over them - just as I did the tartan of the plaid. If I HAD painted the trousers at the same time - I'm pretty sure that most of it would have worn off by handling the piece whilst opainting by now.

I the meantime, therefore, I have begun painting the the second rank - in exactly the same way as these - so won't bore you with similar pics of more of the same.

By the way - anyone new to Tartan painting is encouraged to look at Obee's excellent site on this subject - which taught me how to do it - though I don't always follow the rules exactly!^&grin. Heres the link, below - and highly recommended. jb

http://www.angelfire.com/tx/ToySoldier/tartan.htm

 

[johnnybach]

Now I wouldn't normally paint my figures in this manner - but just to show the progression, I have painted the trews on these to show again the order that the colours are overlaid. From the left - Oxford blue all-over. Next in - is the overlaid grid of green. Then comes the white stripe overlaid - and finally the red stripe is applied. Last of all - is the finished and varnished figure. Now is the time to check for any errors or omissions ( such as - unpainted black boots!). The varnish is there to seal in all of the colours, and also supplies a glossy, protective and smooth overall finish.

From now on - it's just a case of painting the remaining 25 musicians in the same manner - and the Military Band part of the project will be complete. I'll show you how I'm getting on - from time to time - when some different instruments will be added. jb

 

[Obee]

JB,

thats a great way of showing off the steps required in painting tartans,

they are coming along very nicely,

Well Done !!!

John

 

[johnnybach]

JB,

thats a great way of showing off the steps required in painting tartans,

they are coming along very nicely,

Well Done !!!

John

Cheers John - thanks again for showing me how to do it from your web-site! I just took your step-by-step method and applied it to these little beauties. The idea occured to me to line them up and show it this way by accident. I took too much blue paint out of the tin - and it was enough to cover four pairs of trews.^&grin I realised that there were then three more colours/steps to go - and the idea of lining them up alongside my prototype piece was born!:wink2:

I think they're going to look better as time goes by - and the band grows to a decent size.

Hope your weather has cooled off a bit John - all the best - jb

 

[Malcolm Britain]

JB thanks for the words of encouragement.

I think your models and painting style are an excellent compromise between over detailing and and accuracy. Even at 54mm the eye cant take in fine fine detail and the overall impression is what counts. I think that the key things - which you have mastered in this lovely group - are to have the correct uniform style (so if the uniform has shoulder wings then add them as you have) and to paint neatly so that there are no obvious blemishes. (or to touch up carefully to achive a degree of uniformity - no pun intended).

I am starting with a few test models (Tradition kits) and intend to trial them in two styles. Firstly as Tradition paint them. Secondly as before with some (but few) additions. So on a hatman from the 1750's I will aim to get the cuff lace stripes correct (if there are two there wil be two), if the back of a grenadier cap is decorated then that will be represented, and a little very simply extra shading where it has an impact - for example where the flap of the haversack meets the body of the item. When I have produced something reasonable i will post it and let everyone judges as to whether the extra work adds anything to the finished item.

I am also going to trial a couple of priming techniques to see which is most effective to help new starters. I wil report on all the boobs I make so other who might be thinking of having a go are not put off.

More in due course. - must convert this talk to action!

Do you cast the figures yourself?

Malcolm

 

[johnnybach]

JB thanks for the words of encouragement.

I think your models and painting style are an excellent compromise between over detailing and and accuracy. Even at 54mm the eye cant take in fine fine detail and the overall impression is what counts. I think that the key things - which you have mastered in this lovely group - are to have the correct uniform style (so if the uniform has shoulder wings then add them as you have) and to paint neatly so that there are no obvious blemishes. (or to touch up carefully to achive a degree of uniformity - no pun intended).

I am starting with a few test models (Tradition kits) and intend to trial them in two styles. Firstly as Tradition paint them. Secondly as before with some (but few) additions. So on a hatman from the 1750's I will aim to get the cuff lace stripes correct (if there are two there wil be two), if the back of a grenadier cap is decorated then that will be represented, and a little very simply extra shading where it has an impact - for example where the flap of the haversack meets the body of the item. When I have produced something reasonable i will post it and let everyone judges as to whether the extra work adds anything to the finished item.

I am also going to trial a couple of priming techniques to see which is most effective to help new starters. I wil report on all the boobs I make so other who might be thinking of having a go are not put off.

More in due course. - must convert this talk to action!

Do you cast the figures yourself?

Malcolm

Good luck with your project - and the experiments you intend to try out. Tradition products are usually toward the "model" end of the Toy Soldier spectrum - so are a good choice.

I never cast my own - but usually source mine from TS providers who market them as castings. I always tell people where they come from - usually in my opening remarks of any thread - and also, usually, at the end of a thread. The ones I am using for this project, to repeat an earlier explanation, come from Dorset Soldiers. The owner, Giles Brown, is a TS enthusiast, who tries to make many of his ranges compatable with the old hollowcast Britains ranges - and indeed, also supplies many re-cast spares to repair broken or damaged old soldiers like Britains or their ilk. That just happens to be right up my street - and so I have bought and made up many projects from his products. I may add that Giles is an extremely helpful individual - and I frequently discuss with him - how I could achieve a certain effect - and he is a mine of useful information ( and castings) - often at very reasonable prices.

I sometimes need to make slight alterations to some of the figures to achieve exactly what I want - as in the "wing" adaptations you have seen with this band. This is simply because I wanted to include musical instruments which were cast using arms without wings from other parts of Dorset's range. In order to make them all look the same, I therefore decided to use the modification with all of them. Sounds paradoxical - but this sometimes means trimming off some of the wings already cast in to some of them! They just wouldn't all look the same.

What I'm aiming for with this first band - and the rest of the project eventually, is a group that would fit in well with any old hollowcast Glossy Toy Soldiers of the past. I'll leave you to decide whether I have succeeded (or not) when I've finished. I also aim to try to stimulate others to have a go too - as my hobby is really making up and painting TS - which I find so enjoyable - I would love others to try it as well.

Best of luck with your endevours - I will certainly look forward to seeing how you get on. johnnybach

 

[Napoleon1er]

Johnny- you ARE the band man! I'm glad you select the Highland Light Infantry- a fitting target for your skills. I can't wait to see the result!
-Sandor:salute::