Painting gloss figures (1 Viewer)

... but when the figure is finished, I give it a couple of coats of a gloss acrylic, using Future floor wax (I think it's called Kleer outside the US). I've found that along with giving me the gloss finish that I want, it also deepens the quality of some colors, or rather, makes them brighter, more vibrant. And it cleans up very easily.

Prosit!
Brad


Brad,

Sorry, missed this post earlier. I've used Johnsons Kleer in modelling, but never thought to use it as a varnish / sealer. Thanks for the tip!

Jeff,

Yes, I do seem to have developed a bit of multi barrelled problem, but I am seeking treatment for it :)

Added a little more detail to the crew with an insy tinsy paint brush and given the helmets a first coat. Getting there....

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Painting gloss white is always a pain, sometimes I find I have to apply 3 coats especially on larger areas. These are looking good can't wait to see them in situ with the GG.

Jeff
 
Painting gloss white is always a pain, sometimes I find I have to apply 3 coats especially on larger areas. These are looking good can't wait to see them in situ with the GG.

Jeff

I am glad to see you guys have problems with that as well. I thought it was just me.:) Simon you have done well . You are my son! MUAHAHAHAHAAaaaaa
 
Hi, guys,

My problem with gloss white might be brand-specific. I've been using Tamiya's acrylic gloss white (sorry, I can't remember their reference number). It gets thick very quickly when painting, that is, the brush gets clogged, and if I decant any of it onto a little ceramic palette that I have, it dries up in a very short time. This particular bottle has lasted a long time, however, because as it gets thick, I've been able to add a couple drops of ispropyl to it, mix vigorously in the jar, and bring it back.

There must be something chemically in the white pigment that contributes to this reaction.

I've used Testor's, too, in the little square glass bottles. The only problem I've had with that line is that, generally, once I open a bottle, it's a race to use it before it dries out. I don't know if the cardboard cap inserts form an imperfect seal, or what. Then again, I have some bottles from that brand that have lasted for years, without going bad. I still have a bottle of Testor's gloss copper, that I use for gold braid, and I have had that since I was in junior high school (1978). The pigment separates from the carrier solution, and the whole thing is a little thick, but I stir it with a toothpick and it comes back fine.

Might be a topic for its own thread, if we haven't already done it: Rate the paints, by manufacturer, color, etc.

Prosit!
Brad
 
Might be a topic for its own thread, if we haven't already done it: Rate the paints, by manufacturer, color, etc.

Prosit!
Brad

That would prove interesting. I've gone off Tamiya acryllics for the reason you've mentioned and due to poor coverage / pigmentation.

The best acryllics I've found, are the Games Workshop range. A bit limited in tradional WWII colours (unless you fancy Goblin Green Shermans and Space Marine Grey Panzers :eek:), but I find them very good to use.

Simon
 
Painting gloss white is always a pain, sometimes I find I have to apply 3 coats especially on larger areas. These are looking good can't wait to see them in situ with the GG.

Jeff

Jeff, KV,

This is actually Ivory, as I find straight white sooooo harsh and clinical :p.

It was a choice of white, ivory or buff. White was too clean, buff was too yellow, and since I couldn't be bothered to mix some up, and then try and match it later, I plummeted for the midle ground, Ivory (or dirty white).

Still doesn't solve the need for multiple coats, but hey....:)

KV? Dad? Dad, the dentist wants my fangs, make him stop dad :eek::D
 
Jeff, KV,

This is actually Ivory, as I find straight white sooooo harsh and clinical :p.

It was a choice of white, ivory or buff. White was too clean, buff was too yellow, and since I couldn't be bothered to mix some up, and then try and match it later, I plummeted for the midle ground, Ivory (or dirty white).

Still doesn't solve the need for multiple coats, but hey....:)

KV? Dad? Dad, the dentist wants my fangs, make him stop dad :eek::D

My favorite paints for toy soldiers are still the old Pactra line, which, I think, was bought by Testors. They came in jars of maybe an ounce-the jars were about 1.5 inches tall. Those colors went on smooth, cleaned up with water, and had great intensity. I still have a couple jars, a royal blue that is good for Prussians, 2 different greens for toy soldier bases, and a nice yellow that is good for the base color of flags.

They had a green that was perfect for German Jaeger uniforms, it matched the color of Loden cloth, and also a Grenzschuetz tunic that I have. When I finally ran out, I couldn't find a match. The closest that I've been able to get has been Tamiya flat green, which I must then cover with Future to get the gloss finish.

Haven't tried Humbrol or Polly Scale, but then, I don't think the hobby shop that I used to go to (Penn Valley Hobbies, Lansdale PA, still in business and on the Web) stocked them.

I use:

Model Master, flats and gloss, they've always gone on well, and I can use them both for metal figures, and plastic and resin scale models

Testor's enamels in the square glass bottles, but with the problems noted previously, some colors tend to dry out quickly, others last forever

Tamiya, flats and gloss, with the problem with the gloss white as noted previously.

Gunze-Sangyo, from Japan. I have their gloss gold, which separates in the jar like the Testor's copper, but comes back with stirring. Also use some shades of brown, and a pink for SYW uniform details. These are also strong and vibrant in their colors, I've found.

I also have a palette of Schminke Mussini oils, which I bought to use and learn how to work with oils. I've wound up using them more to make washes for scale models.

For primer, I use generic automotive primer. The best that I've had has been the off-brand sold at WalMart. For me, it's always worked very well, very finely grained, but with good "tooth", both in how it holds to the surface, and in the surface it gives the top coats. I've used Rustoleum's primer, too, but found that it was a little thick, for my taste. I keep that now for larger projects, like sprucing up my patio furniture for the summer.

Prosit!
Brad
 
Finally finished the crew, with 3 coats on the helmets, bases and touched up a few details:

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Well, it's been an educational experience, painting properly with gloss for the first time and I thank all of those that have offered guidance.

I've still got to finish off the supporting infantry which is next on the list, followed by Gatling Packing Camel and Britains 24th, so I'll keep posting away, as long as people don't get bored watching.

Simon
 
Thanks Scott, appreciate the support along the way. I've really enjoyed it- total change from painting in matt. Looking forward to doing more in gloss, as well as matt, from here on in.

Cheers
Simon
 
Dear Simon...since you have nothing to do now, what would you charge me for a gatling set, as you painted it..Just because I can paint, does not mean that I want to...Michael
 
Was well worth the wait Colonel Simon to see the set finished and looking forward to seeing the Brits when done.....The Lt. Colonel yep they put a Colonel after the Lt.
 
Simon,

What do you mean by “painting properly with gloss for the first time” :confused: This is a nicely finished set :) gloss also gives a rather nice ‘feel’ to the figure. I like this sort of set a lot, hence most of the sets I have painted over the last few years have an artillery piece included.

How are you getting on with the 24th?

Jeff
 
Simon great job and it is always nice to see pieces at several stages of completion.
 
Simon: Great painting job. You really did a nice job. I enjoyed following your progress. John
 
Thanks for the kind comments gents.

24th are hopefully not too far behind, it's just there are a lot more fiddly bits with them.

Jeff, I meant intentionally painting a glossy, as opposed to my younger days when some painted figures might end up with gloss bits on them, as that happened to be the finish of the tin I had :eek:

Simon
 

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